The Traditional Macramé Owl Wall Hanging Every Maker Should Attempt Once
Last updated: July 21, 2026
A Note from Nicole
Every macramé maker eventually reaches the same milestone project — the owl. It's the piece that combines everything you've been practicing (Lark's Head, Square Knot, Berry Knot, Double Half Hitch, Gathering) into one recognizable, character-filled wall hanging. Not the biggest project. Not the smallest. Just the one that reads as unmistakably "macramé" the moment someone sees it on your wall.
This is not a first-project tutorial. If you've made a wall hanging or two, or you've knotted through a few plant hangers and a coaster, you're ready. If macramé is brand new to you, do the complete beginners guide first — this owl uses 5 different knots, and it goes better when you're already comfortable with each.
12 steps, 3 phases, about 2–3 hours. Layered wings, beaded eyes, a small colored beak, and legs perched on a second dowel. Let's build the traditional macramé owl every maker eventually makes.
A macramé owl wall hanging (also called a traditional macramé owl, boho owl wall decor, or knotted owl art) is a hand-knotted decorative wall piece shaped like a stylized owl — with a face, beaded eyes, a small beak, layered wings, and legs perched on a lower dowel. It is one of the most iconic and traditional macramé projects, dating back to the 1970s macramé boom, and remains a milestone project every macramé maker eventually attempts. This tutorial builds the owl in 3 phases (Foundation, Face & Body, Wings, Legs & Eyes) across 12 steps, uses 5 foundational knots (Lark's Head + Square Knot + Berry Knot + Double Half Hitch + Gathering Knot), and produces a finished owl approximately 10 inches wide by 12 inches tall.
Quick Answer
- What you'll make: A traditional macramé owl wall hanging with a shaped face, beaded eyes, a small colored beak, layered wings, and legs perched on a second dowel. The classic milestone macramé project.
- Skill level: Intermediate. Uses 5 foundational knots (Lark's Head, Square Knot, Berry Knot, DHH, Gathering). If you've made a wall hanging or plant hanger before, you're ready.
- Time: ~2–3 hours (broken into 3 natural phases you can pause between).
- Cord: 4mm single-strand cotton macramé cord (~30 meters total across various lengths) + colored accent cord for the beak + 2mm string for eyes.
- Perfect for: Living room, bedroom, nursery, boho gallery wall, entryway. The traditional macramé piece that every maker eventually attempts.
🎥 Watch the video first. The face-shaping in Phase 2 (Steps 5–6) and the layered wings in Step 8 are much easier to see demonstrated than to read. Nicole walks through every knot direction change.
What's in this tutorial
- What is a Traditional Macramé Owl Wall Hanging?
- Materials You'll Need
- Cord Cut Lengths (Cut These Before You Start)
- Knots You'll Use
- Project Details at a Glance
- Watch the Video Tutorial
- Phase 1: Foundation (Steps 1–4)
- Phase 2: Face & Body (Steps 5–9)
- Phase 3: Legs, Second Dowel, Eyes (Steps 10–12)
- Where to Hang Your Owl
- Ways to Customize Your Owl
- Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Try These Next
- FAQ
What is a Traditional Macramé Owl Wall Hanging?
A traditional macramé owl wall hanging is a hand-knotted decorative piece shaped like a stylized owl — complete with a face, beaded eyes, a small colored beak, layered wings, and legs perched on a lower dowel. It is one of the most iconic macramé designs, popularized during the 1970s macramé boom and still one of the most-searched patterns every year.
The owl is considered a milestone project in most makers' journeys because it uses 5 different foundational knots (Lark's Head, Square Knot, Berry Knot, Double Half Hitch, and Gathering Knot) in one cohesive piece. If you can make an owl, you have the technical foundation to make almost any macramé wall hanging.
The pattern is intermediate — not because any single knot is hard, but because the piece requires symmetry across many rows, tension consistency through layered wings, and patience through 2–3 hours of continuous work. The reward: a wall hanging that reads as unmistakably "macramé" and gets asked about by every visitor.
Materials You'll Need
4mm Single-Strand Cotton Cord
Main body cord. Choose natural, cream, or a warm neutral for the traditional look.
Shop 4mm cord2× 6" Wooden Dowels
Top dowel = the hanger. Second dowel = the perch for the owl's legs.
Shop dowels2× 3cm Wooden Rings
Structural base for the beaded eyes. 3cm outer diameter is the classic size.
Shop rings2× Large-Hole Beads (4mm+ hole)
The owl's pupils. Wooden, ceramic, or metal — all work. Pick a color that contrasts the cord.
Shop beadsColored Accent Cord
Just 20cm needed — for the beak. Any color works; mustard, rust, or deep green are classic.
Shop cord colorsScissors + Comb + 2mm String
Sharp scissors for cuts, comb for fringe, 2mm string for eye attachment.
Shop toolsNot sure which cord to pick? Read our complete guide to selecting macramé cord and materials. All supplies are also on the Bochiknot Amazon storefront for Prime shipping.
Cord Cut Lengths (Cut These Before You Start)
Cut all your cords first. The owl uses many different cord lengths for different sections — measuring mid-project is the #1 reason makers abandon the owl halfway through. 10 minutes of prep saves hours of frustration.
| Cord Type | Length | Quantity | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4mm cotton cord | 250 cm | 12 strands | Main body cords (Step 1) |
| 4mm cotton cord | 100 cm | 4 strands | Wing lines + face diagonals (Steps 4–5) |
| 4mm cotton cord | 100 cm | 2 strands | Additional wing rows (Step 8) |
| 4mm cotton cord | 45 cm | 1 strand | Gathering knot on second dowel (Step 11) |
| 4mm cotton cord | 12 cm | 20 strands | Eye rings — 10 per ring × 2 rings (Step 12) |
| Colored accent cord | 20 cm | 1 strand | Beak (Step 6) |
| 2mm string | 40 cm | 2 strands | Attaching eye rings to body (Step 12) |
Total cord used: ~4,285 cm (~43 meters) of 4mm cord + 20cm colored + 80cm 2mm string. One large roll of 4mm cord makes multiple owls.
Knots You'll Use (With Tutorial Links)
The owl uses 5 foundational knots. If you're rusty on any of them, take 10 minutes to brush up on the ones below before starting — each links to a full step-by-step tutorial:
- Lark's Head Knot — attaches cords to the top dowel (Step 1) and to the eye rings (Step 12). Learn this knot →
- Square Knot — the workhorse of the owl. Used for the top row, body fill, legs, and beak. Learn this knot →
- Berry Knot — the 3D bobble that gives the chest and belly their signature texture (Steps 3 & 9).
- Double Half Hitch (DHH) — creates the diagonal wing lines and face shaping (Steps 4, 5, 8). Learn this knot →
- Gathering Knot — locks the second dowel in place at the bottom (Step 11).
Project Details at a Glance
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate ★★★★☆ |
| Time to complete | ~2–3 hours (with breaks between phases) |
| Finished size | ~10 inches wide × 12 inches tall (adjustable via fringe length) |
| Cord | 4mm single-strand cotton (~43m total) |
| Structure | 3 phases · 12 steps · 5 different knots |
| Knots used | Lark's Head, Square Knot, Berry Knot, Double Half Hitch, Gathering Knot |
Watch the Video Tutorial
Watch the full walkthrough first — the face shaping in Steps 5–6 and the layered wings in Step 8 are much easier to see demonstrated than to read:
▶ Watch this tutorial full-screen on YouTube →
Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial
All 12 steps are grouped into three natural phases. Take a break between phases — the owl benefits from fresh eyes for symmetry checks between the face, wings, and finishing details.
Foundation — Setting Up the Top of the Owl
Steps 1–4 build the top of the owl: the main cord attachment, the first row of square knots, the berry knot texture, and the diagonal wing lines that frame the face.
Attach the Main Cords to the Top Dowel
- Hang your first 6-inch dowel at a comfortable working height (dowel clip, hook, or anchored to a chair back all work).
- Take your twelve 250 cm strands (the longest cords) — these become the main body cords for the owl's face, wings, body, legs, and fringe.
- Fold each cord in half one at a time and attach to the dowel using a Lark's Head knot. Space them evenly across the center of the dowel.
- Once all 12 cords are mounted, you'll have 24 working strands hanging down — the foundation for the entire owl.
Create the Top Row of Square Knots
- Starting on the far left, take the first 4 cords and tie a Square knot.
- Continue across the row using each subsequent set of 4 cords until you've made 6 Square knots total across the top.
- This first row anchors the shape and sets the width — check that all 6 knots align on the same horizontal line before moving on.
Add Berry Knots for Texture Across the Upper Body
- Berry knots (also called popcorn or bobble knots) add the raised 3D texture that gives the owl's chest its signature look.
- Between the first two Square knots on the left, tie a Berry knot. Continue across the row until you have 4 Berry knots total.
- Directly underneath that berry row, make a second row of 5 Square knots — offset from the row above (each aligns between two berries).
- This alternating berry-then-square pattern is what creates the textured 'chest feathers' look.
Build the Wing Lines with Diagonal Double Half-Hitch Knots
- The wing lines are the diagonal edges that frame the owl's body. Cut one 100 cm strand of 4mm cord.
- Place the 100 cm strand diagonally on the right side, leaving a short tail at the end. This becomes the anchor cord.
- Using the far-right working cords, tie 10 Double Half-Hitch (DHH) knots along the anchor cord, working diagonally inward toward the center.
- Repeat on the left side with a second 100 cm cord — 10 DHH knots diagonally inward. You now have a V-shape framing the top of the owl.
Foundation built!
Steps 1–4 done. Top dowel is mounted, the first row of square knots + berry texture is in, and the diagonal wing V is framing the top.
Pause here if you need a break. The face + body work in Phase 2 is where the owl really starts to appear.
Face & Body — Where the Owl Appears
Steps 5–9 shape the face, add the beak, fill in the body, form the layered wings, and finish with belly berries. This is the visual reveal of the owl.
Shape the Face and Prepare the Eye Area
- The face shaping starts here. Use the far-right cord as an anchor and tie DHH knots diagonally toward the center — this outlines the top of the face.
- Repeat from the far-left side, mirroring the diagonal into the center.
- Add one shorter diagonal DHH row on each side underneath the main diagonal — these smaller rows shape the outer edges of the face.
- The area between the two diagonals is where the beaded eyes will attach in Step 12 — leave this section flat for now.
Add the Lower Face and Attach the Beak
- Using the far-left 6 cords, tie 3 Square knots stacked vertically. Then tie 1 Square knot using the next 6 cords over.
- Mirror the same pattern on the right side (3 stacked Square knots on the far right, then 1 Square knot with the next 6 cords).
- For the beak: take your 20 cm colored cord and tie a single Square knot with it around the center 4 cords.
- The colored cord creates a small pop of contrast right where the beak sits between the two eye areas.
Fill Out the Center Body with More Square Knots
- Now fill in the body. Using the cords immediately beside the beak, tie a Square knot on the same center cords used in Step 6.
- Add 2 more Square knots on each side of the center — building outward from the beak toward the wing lines.
- This filled-in section connects the face to the belly and sets up the center for berry knots in Step 9.
- The chest area should now look solid and dense — this is what gives owl wall hangings their weighty, sculptural feel.
Form the Layered Wings with Five Diagonal Rows Each Side
- The layered wings are the most visually striking feature of the owl. On the LEFT side, use the far-left cord as an anchor and make one diagonal row outward with DHH knots.
- For each next row: switch the anchor to the next cord in and repeat the diagonal DHH row. Do 5 diagonal rows total on the left side.
- Each row nests slightly below the previous one, creating a layered feather appearance.
- Mirror the entire process on the RIGHT side — 5 diagonal rows outward.
- The finished wings should have visible 'feather layers' fanning out from the body toward the outer edges.
Make the Belly and Center Feathers with Berry Knots
- Return to the center of the owl (the belly area between the wings).
- Tie a Berry knot with the left 4 cords, then another Berry knot with the right 4 cords.
- Then tie 1 alternating Berry knot in the middle (using the center 4 cords, offset between the two berries above).
- This 3-berry belly cluster is the finishing texture on the front of the owl — it echoes the berry knots in Step 3 for visual continuity.
The owl is unmistakable now!
Steps 5–9 done. Face is shaped, beak is attached, wings are layered, belly berries are in. What was cord-and-knots is now clearly an owl.
Almost there. Legs, second dowel, and eyes remaining — the finishing details that give the owl its perched personality.
Legs, Second Dowel & Eyes — Finishing the Owl
Steps 10–12 add the legs, mount the second dowel with a gathering knot, attach the beaded eye rings, and trim the fringe. This is the finish.
Build the Legs with Consecutive Square Knots
- The legs give the owl its perched look. On the far-left side, take the 4 outermost cords and tie 4 consecutive Square knots stacked vertically.
- Repeat on the far-right side with the 4 outermost cords — 4 consecutive Square knots.
- The two long knot columns become the owl's legs.
- Legs are one of the simplest sections in the whole tutorial — a nice moment of rhythm and momentum after the intensity of the wings.
Attach the Second Dowel and Finish with a Gathering Knot
- Place your second 6-inch dowel horizontally under the legs, at the height where you want the owl to 'perch.'
- Bring the wing sections gently to the back of the piece — this keeps them from getting caught in the gathering knot.
- Gather all remaining cords around the second dowel. Take your 45 cm cord and use it to tie a Gathering knot around all the cords + the dowel, securing the piece.
- The Gathering knot is what locks everything in place — pull it firm but not so tight that it warps the dowel position.
- Trim any excess from the Gathering knot ends and tuck them into the back.
Make the Beaded Eyes and Trim the Fringe
- The eyes are what give the owl its personality. For each eye: attach ten 12 cm cords to one 3 cm ring using Lark's Head knots (all around the ring).
- Trim the fringe evenly around the ring — this creates the 'furry' outer eye ring.
- Slide a large-hole bead into the ring so it sits in the center — this is the pupil.
- Use one 40 cm strand of 2 mm string to secure the ring: wrap around the bead, thread through the owl body at the eye position, and tie a knot at the back.
- Repeat for the second eye.
- Trim the top corners of the face and the bottom fringe to your desired length — the owl is finished.
You did it!
Your traditional macramé owl wall hanging is finished — face shaped, beak attached, wings layered, legs perched, eyes beaded, fringe trimmed.
This is the milestone. If you finished this owl, you have the technical foundation to make almost any macramé wall hanging.
Snap a photo and tag #BochiknotOwl on Instagram — Nicole loves seeing which color palettes and beak colors makers pick.
Where to Hang Your Owl
The owl works almost anywhere, but reads best when it has visual breathing room. 8 places Nicole loves hanging owl wall pieces:
Ways to Customize Your Owl
| Customization | How to Do It |
|---|---|
| Change the beak color | Swap the 20cm colored cord for any accent color — mustard yellow, rust orange, deep green, or terracotta are classic. Even a small color change transforms the personality. |
| Different bead colors | Wooden beads for a natural look, black for graphic contrast, brass or copper for a warmer glow. The eyes carry a lot of visual weight — bead choice matters. |
| Rustic driftwood dowels | Swap the 6" wooden dowels for driftwood pieces. Great for coastal / cabin / farmhouse aesthetics. Sand off any rough splinters first. |
| Longer fringe | Leave the bottom fringe untrimmed for a longer, more textured owl. Adds 4–6 inches to the finished height and reads as more boho. |
| Dyed or ombré cord | Use undyed cord for the body and dyed cord for the wings, or dip-dye the fringe. Ombré owls have a Pinterest moment every autumn. |
| Bigger or smaller owl | Scale all cord lengths by the same percentage (e.g. 1.5× for a bigger owl, 0.75× for smaller). Keep the ratios the same. |
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
| Mistake | Fix |
|---|---|
| Owl looks lopsided | Symmetry checks matter every phase. Compare left vs right after each step. If wings are 5 rows on one side and 4 on the other, undo the shorter side and match. |
| Berry knots aren't "popping" visually | You're not pulling the filler cords up and back through firmly enough. Berry knots need firm tension — the little bump should be pronounced, not subtle. |
| Wings sag or look loose | DHH knot tension is the culprit. When laying the diagonal anchor cord, pull it tight before each DHH row. Loose anchor = saggy wings. |
| Face looks unclear / not owl-like | The face diagonals in Step 5 are what read as "owl." If they're too gentle or unclear, redo them at a steeper angle. Sharp diagonals = obvious owl shape. |
| Gathering knot won't hold the second dowel | Wrap the gathering cord tighter and pull firmer. If the dowel still shifts, use 2 gathering knots stacked instead of 1. |
| Eyes look uneven | Measure eye positions from the center outward before attaching the 2mm string. Placing eyes by eyeballing (pun intended) rarely lands symmetrically. |
| Fringe is uneven after trimming | Trim in stages. Cut long first, hang and check, then trim shorter. It's easier to remove more than to add cord back. |
Try These Next
🔗 Loved this project? Related patterns and techniques:
- The Diamond Lace Pattern Every Macramé Wall Hanging Needs — the delicate openwork pattern used in modern wall art
- The 4 Boho Daisy Knots Every Macramé Maker Should Know — floral decorative knots for accents
- The One-of-a-Kind Macramé Flower Coaster That Doubles as Table Décor — smaller intermediate project
🎨 Ready for more? Browse our complete macramé pattern library for downloadable PDF patterns.
Want a finished piece instead? Handmade Bochiknot wall hangings are on our Etsy shop.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the macramé owl a beginner project?
It's better suited to an intermediate maker or a confident beginner who's already comfortable with Lark's Head, Square Knots, and Double Half Hitch. The owl uses 5 different knots and requires symmetry across many rows — if it's your very first macramé project, start with a wall hanging or plant hanger first.
How long does it take to make a macramé owl?
About 2-3 hours for your first owl, spread across 3 phases you can pause between. Once you've made 1-2 owls, you'll drop closer to 90 minutes. It's not a project to rush — the owl is more enjoyable when you take breaks.
What size dowels do I need for the owl?
Two 6-inch wooden dowels. If needed, you can cut a 12-inch dowel in half. One dowel = the top hanger. The second dowel = the perch at the bottom (where the legs sit).
What cord size is best for the macramé owl?
4mm single-strand cotton macramé cord for the main body. The eyes are attached with 2mm string, and the beak uses a short piece of colored cord. 4mm gives the owl its structured, sculptural weight without being too chunky.
How are the owl's eyes made?
Each eye is made by attaching ten 12cm cords around a 3cm wooden ring using Lark's Head knots, trimming the fringe evenly around the ring, then centering a large-hole bead in the middle. The rings are then secured to the owl's body using 2mm string threaded through and knotted at the back.
What are the most important knots for the owl?
The 5 knots used are: Lark's Head Knot (attachment), Square Knot (body fill + legs), Berry Knot (chest + belly texture), Double Half Hitch (wings + face shaping), and Gathering Knot (second dowel attachment). All 5 are worth practicing before starting.
Can I customize the macramé owl?
Absolutely — change the beak color, use different bead colors, swap the dowels for driftwood for a coastal look, vary the fringe length, use dyed or ombré cord, or scale the whole owl bigger or smaller. It's one of the most customizable macramé projects.
What's the finished size of the owl?
Approximately 10 inches wide by 12 inches tall, adjustable by fringe length. Scale all cord measurements proportionally to make a bigger or smaller owl.
How much cord do I need for one owl?
About 43 meters of 4mm cord total across all lengths (twelve 250cm strands + six 100cm + one 45cm + twenty 12cm), plus 20cm of colored accent cord for the beak and 80cm of 2mm string for the eyes. One large roll of 4mm cord makes multiple owls.
Do I need special macramé tools?
Sharp scissors are essential. A macramé comb helps trim the fringe evenly. A measuring tape is worth having for cord cutting. Beyond that, no special tools required — the owl uses only cord, dowels, rings, and beads.
Can I make the owl bigger?
Yes — scale all cord lengths and dowel sizes by the same percentage. A 1.5× scale gives you a ~15 in × 18 in owl. Keep all ratios the same and the pattern still works cleanly.
Where can I buy the exact cord and materials Nicole uses?
All materials are on Bochiknot.com — 4mm single-strand cord, wooden dowels, wooden rings, and macramé scissors are all in stock. You can also find them on the Bochiknot Amazon storefront for Prime shipping. Prefer a ready-made owl? Handmade Bochiknot pieces are on our Etsy shop.
Why is the owl called the 'traditional' macramé project?
The macramé owl dates back to the 1970s macramé boom in North America — it was one of the most popular decorative pieces of the era. It's remained a milestone project since because it combines all the foundational knots into one recognizable piece. Nearly every serious macramé maker eventually makes at least one owl.
Can I use braided cord instead of single-strand?
You can, but the aesthetic changes. Single-strand cord gives the owl the traditional, soft, slightly fuzzy look. Braided cord makes the owl look more structured and modern. Both work — pick based on the aesthetic you want.
What if my owl looks lopsided?
Symmetry is the hardest part of any owl. Compare left and right sides after every step, and especially after Step 8 (wings). If one side has more rows or tighter knots, undo and rebalance. Every experienced owl-maker has redone a wing at least once — it's part of the process.
Can I sell owls I make from this pattern?
Yes — you're welcome to sell finished handmade owls from this pattern. The traditional macramé owl is a classic technique, not proprietary to Bochiknot. Please don't share or resell this tutorial itself.
How do I care for a macramé owl?
Dust it every few months with a soft brush or a hair dryer on cool setting. Spot clean spills with a damp cloth. Avoid direct sunlight for long periods — cotton cord fades slowly over years in bright sun. A well-cared-for macramé owl lasts a lifetime.
Keep Learning with Bochiknot
You Might Also Be Interested In
📸 Made an owl? Show us.
Tag #BochiknotOwl on Instagram — Nicole loves seeing which color combos, beak colors, and bead choices makers pick. First owls are especially fun to see.
About Nicole Woo
Nicole is the founder of Bochiknot and has been teaching macramé for 5+ years to a community of 100,000+ makers across YouTube, Instagram, and Patreon. She specializes in beginner-friendly cotton cord projects that feel approachable no matter your skill level.
Join her on Patreon for exclusive patterns, or explore individual ebook patterns.
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