How to Make a Macrame Ghost Sculpture for Halloween
A free-standing ghost knotted in the round — no armature, no stuffing, no glue. It holds its dome shape because of when you stop adding cord, and that one idea unlocks every 3D macrame project.
Last updated: September 4, 2026
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A Note from Nicole
Nearly everything else on this site lies flat. This one doesn't, and that is the whole point of making it.
The first time I knotted something in the round I assumed there would be a trick to it — a wire frame, a ball of stuffing, something hidden inside holding the shape. There isn't. The ghost stands up because of a decision you make around Step 5: you stop adding cords. Up to that point every round gets wider. The moment you stop, the rows have nowhere to expand into, so they begin to cup inward on their own.
That's it. That is the entire secret of three-dimensional macrame, and once you have it you can make a pumpkin, a bauble, a bell, a bear — anything domed.
It is not a beginner project. It is a lot of double half hitch knots and it asks for patience with tension. But there is nothing in it you couldn't learn in an afternoon, and the payoff is a little ghost that sits on a shelf and holds its own shape.
A macrame ghost sculpture is a three-dimensional Halloween decoration knotted in the round rather than worked flat, built from rows of double half hitch knots that expand outward from a central loop and then curve inward to form a self-supporting dome. It needs no wire frame, stuffing or glue — the shape comes from adding cords to widen the early rounds, then stopping, which forces the later rows to cup. This pattern uses 3mm cotton cord for the body and 1.5mm string for the face, takes one to two hours, and finishes at roughly 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) tall.
Quick Answer
- Skill level: Intermediate to advanced ★★★★☆ — the knots are basic, the shaping is not.
- Time: 1–2 hours.
- Finished size: 20–30 cm (8–12″) tall, free-standing.
- Cord: 3mm cotton for the body, 1.5mm string for the face.
- Structure: None. No wire, no stuffing, no glue.
- Knots: Double half hitch mostly, plus reverse lark's head, square knot and double overhand.
- Also inside: how macrame holds a 3D shape — the principle behind every domed project.
🎥 Watch the video before you start. Knotting in the round is genuinely hard to picture from photographs — seeing the piece rotate once makes the whole thing obvious.
What's in this tutorial
- Materials you'll need
- How macrame holds a 3D shape
- Cord cut lengths
- The knots you'll use
- Project details at a glance
- Watch the video tutorial
- Phase 1: Building the dome (Steps 1–5)
- Phase 2: Arms (Steps 6–8)
- Phase 3: Edging and face (Steps 9–12)
- Where first attempts usually go wrong
- What to make next month
- FAQ
Materials You'll Need
Two cord weights and a crochet hook. Nothing structural, because there is nothing structural in the finished piece — and you'll want scissors and a tape measure, which you almost certainly already own.
3mm Cotton Cord
The ghost body. White or off-white reads most like a ghost; one roll makes several.
1.5mm Macrame String
For the eyes and mouth. You want black here, and very little of it.
Macrame Tool Kit
A crochet hook is essential for Steps 6 and 10 — any hook works if you already own one.
Not sure which cord? Read the complete guide to selecting macrame cord. Our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
How Macrame Holds a 3D Shape
Everyone assumes there is something inside. A wire ring, a ball of stuffing, a bit of glue at the crown. There isn't — and once you understand why, every domed macrame project becomes available to you.
Flat macrame and three-dimensional macrame use exactly the same knots. What separates them is a single decision, made about a third of the way in: when do you stop adding cords?
The principle in one paragraph
Each round of double half hitch knots has a fixed circumference, set by how many cords are in it. Add cords to a round and it gets wider. Keep adding and the piece grows outward into a flat disc. Stop adding, and every subsequent round has the same number of cords as the one above it — but the knots take up space, so the round cannot lie flat. It has nowhere to go except inward. That inward curve, repeated over eight or ten rounds, is the dome.
The three phases of any 3D piece
| Phase | What you do | What the shape does |
|---|---|---|
| Expand | Add new cords into the gaps on every round | Grows outward, flat, like a coaster |
| Hold | Knot full rounds with no additions | Curves inward and becomes a dome |
| Close or flare | Either keep holding, or add again at the very bottom | Closes into a sphere, or flares into a skirt |
In this ghost, Steps 1–4 are Expand, Step 5 is Hold, and Steps 9–10 flare the hem back out into the scalloped edge. That flare at the bottom is what makes it read as a ghost rather than a bauble.
Controlling how fast it curves
The rate of the curve is set by how abruptly you stop:
- Stop all at once — as this pattern does — and you get a fairly steep, rounded dome. Good for ghosts, baubles and pumpkins.
- Taper off gradually, adding two cords on one round and one on the next before stopping, and the curve is shallower. Better for bells, bowls and anything you want to look open.
- Add cords again lower down and the shape flares back out. That is how you get a skirt, a hem, or a Christmas tree's tiers.
What decides whether it stands up
Three things, none of which is an internal frame:
- Tension. Every double half hitch has to be pulled to the same firmness. Loose knots make a floppy dome that sags under its own weight; over-tight ones pucker and the shape goes lumpy rather than round.
- Cord stiffness. 3mm single-strand cotton is stiff enough to hold a curve. 1.5mm string is not — which is why it is used only for the face here. Braided cord holds shape slightly better than 3-ply; very soft or fuzzy cord will not hold at all.
- Round count. A dome needs enough rounds after you stop adding for the curve to develop. Fewer than about six and it reads as a shallow bowl rather than a dome.
💡 Why you don't want stuffing. It is tempting on a first attempt, and it makes things worse. Stuffing pushes outward against exactly the rounds that are trying to curve inward, so it fights the shape rather than supporting it — you end up with something lumpy that has lost its dome. If your piece won't hold up, the fix is tension or more rounds, not filling.
Where else this applies
The same three phases build almost every 3D macrame object:
| Object | How the phases run |
|---|---|
| Ghost (this pattern) | Expand, hold, then flare into a scalloped hem |
| Pumpkin | Expand, hold, then close — symmetrical top and bottom |
| Bauble or ornament | Expand, short hold, close tightly for a sphere |
| Bell or bowl | Expand, taper the additions off gradually, never close |
| Christmas tree | Repeated expand-and-flare cycles, each one a tier |
| Animal head | Expand, hold, close — then add ears as separate pieces |
Learn it once here and you have the technique for all of them. Our macrame pumpkin is the closest cousin — expand, hold, then close — and the 3D Christmas tree and bear ornament both use exactly this logic.
Cord Cut Lengths
Seven groups, cut before you start. The lengths shorten as the rounds get smaller — that is the expansion built into the cut list.
| Group | Lengths | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | 1 × 250 cm (98″) + 3 × 125 cm (49″) | The starting loop and anchor cord (Step 1) |
| Row 2 | 1 × 125 cm (49″) + 3 × 115 cm (45″) | First expansion round (Step 2) |
| Row 3 | 2 × 115 cm (45″) | Second expansion (Step 3) |
| Row 4 | 2 × 105 cm (41″) | Third expansion (Step 3) |
| Row 5 | 4 × 100 cm (39″) | Final expansion — after this you stop adding (Step 4) |
| Arms | 2 × 50 cm (20″) + 2 × 30 cm (12″) | Both arms (Steps 6–7) |
| Edging | 1 × 300 cm (118″) + 1 × 100 cm (39″) | The scalloped hem (Steps 9–10) |
Around 19 m of 3mm cord in total, plus two 30 cm lengths of black 1.5mm string for the face.
📏 Want a taller ghost? Add another expansion round of 4 × 100 cm before you stop, and give yourself two or three extra rounds in the hold phase. Height comes from rounds, width comes from additions — they are separate controls. Our free cord calculator handles the length side.
The Knots You'll Use
Four knots, and the double half hitch does perhaps ninety percent of the work. If your DHH is comfortable, the rest is detail.
Double Half Hitch
Every round of the ghost is a row of these. Learn it properly before starting — you will tie several hundred.
Learn the double half hitch
Reverse Lark's Head
Adds every new cord during the expansion rounds. Sits flatter than a standard lark's head.
Learn the reverse lark's head
Square Knot
Secures the arms at Step 7, and holds the double overhand finish in place.
Learn the square knotTying a lot of double half hitches in one sitting? Our 5 top tips for double half hitch knots covers the tension habits that matter most — and tension is what decides whether this ghost stands up.
Project Details at a Glance
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate to advanced ★★★★☆ |
| Time | 1–2 hours |
| Finished size | 20–30 cm (8–12″) tall |
| Cord | 3mm single-strand cotton (~19 m) + black 1.5mm string |
| Internal structure | None — no wire, stuffing or glue |
| Knots | Double half hitch, reverse lark's head, square, double overhand |
| Tools | Scissors, measuring tape, crochet hook |
| Steps | 12, in three phases |
Watch the Video Tutorial
▶ Watch full-screen on YouTube →
Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial
Twelve steps in three phases. Phase 1 builds the dome, Phase 2 adds the arms, Phase 3 does the hem and face. Work in the round throughout — the piece rotates in your hands rather than lying on a table.
Building the Dome
Steps 1-5 start at the crown and expand outward, then stop adding cords so the shape curves in on itself. This is the 3D part.
Build the Top Center Loop
- Fold the 250 cm cord to create a loop at one end.
- Attach three folded 125 cm cords to the loop using reverse lark’s head knots.
- Pull the longer end of the anchor cord to tighten the loop securely.
- Tuck the shorter end underneath the work and keep the longer end as the anchor cord.
Add One More Starting Cord and Begin the Spiral
- Attach the final 125 cm cord onto the anchor cord with a reverse lark’s head knot.
- Position the anchor cord to the left and begin making double half hitch knots.
- Knot around the first two vertical cords to start the spiral structure.
- Adjust the cords so the top opening remains evenly filled.
Expand the Shape by Filling Gaps With Added Cords
- Make two double half hitch knots, then attach a 115 cm cord into the next gap using a reverse lark’s head knot.
- Repeat this process around the piece, adding cords where gaps appear.
- Continue alternating between knotting and attaching new cords.
- Focus on keeping the spacing balanced as the shape grows outward.
Finish the Expansion Rounds
- Continue making rows of double half hitch knots while adding the remaining shaping cords.
- Add four 115 cm cords, two 105 cm cords, and four 100 cm cords throughout the expansion stage.
- Stop adding cords once all shaping cords have been attached.
- The structure should now feel wider and more evenly rounded.
Knot Full Rounds to Form the Dome
- Make eight complete rows of double half hitch knots around the ghost.
- Do not add any additional cords during this stage.
- Allow the shape to naturally curve inward as the rows build.
- By the end, the body should resemble a small dome or basket.
The dome exists
You've stopped adding cords and the rows have started to cup. Stand it on a table — it should already hold its own shape without help.
If it sags, the fix is tension, not stuffing.
Arms
Steps 6-8 add and secure the arms, then lock them with a final row.
Add the First Arm
- Use a crochet hook to weave a 30 cm cord through the third row up from the bottom.
- Position a 50 cm cord underneath the woven ends.
- Create three consecutive square knots.
- This forms the first arm of the ghost.
Pull the Arm Ends Inside and Secure Them
- Weave the arm cord ends through the row directly beneath the square knots.
- Pull all four ends to the inside of the ghost.
- Tie two double overhand knots to secure the arm firmly.
- Repeat the same process on the opposite side to create the second arm.
Add One More Row Around the Lower Body
- Use the anchor cord to make another row of double half hitch knots around the lower section.
- Work around the front and sides, stopping at the back.
- Keep the tension consistent throughout the row.
- This creates space for the scalloped edging in the next step.
Arms on and locked
Both arms are woven in and secured with a final row. From here it's the hem and the face.
Four steps left.
Edging and Face
Steps 9-12 make the scalloped hem, add the eyes and mouth, and shape the finished ghost.
Make the Scalloped Edging
- Position a 100 cm cord vertically and place a 300 cm cord beside it.
- Use the longer cord as the working cord.
- Make eight consecutive half hitch knots on the same side.
- This creates the first scallop segment along the bottom edge.
Weave the Scallops Through the Bottom and Continue Around
- Use a crochet hook to weave the cord ends through the bottom row and secure them inside with a double overhand knot.
- Pull the longer ends back through so the scallop remains visible on the outside.
- Bring the cords up through the next opening and create another set of eight half hitch knots.
- Continue this process around the entire ghost until the edging is complete.
Create the Eyes and Mouth
- Use two 30 cm pieces of black string to create the eyes by wrapping them repeatedly around the same knot area.
- Secure the eye strings inside the ghost with knots or by tucking them in.
- Use a 15 cm piece of black string to form the mouth beneath the eyes.
- Secure both ends of the mouth string inside the ghost with double overhand knots.
Tuck in All Ends and Shape the Ghost
- Tuck all remaining cord and string ends inside the ghost.
- Trim any excess cord if needed while leaving enough to stay secure.
- Gently shape and fluff the body until it sits evenly.
- Your Macramé Ghost Sculpture is now complete
It stands up on its own
No wire, no stuffing, no glue — just knots that ran out of room to expand. Put it on a shelf where it gets some side light; the texture reads far better lit from an angle.
Tag #BochiknotGhost on Instagram — I'd love to see a whole shelf of them.
Where First Attempts Usually Go Wrong
Knotting in the round fails differently from flat work. These are the ones I see most, roughly in the order they happen.
| What happens | Why, and how to fix it |
|---|---|
| A gap at the crown | The starting loop in Step 1 wasn't pulled tight before the first round. Everything grows from that loop, so a millimetre of slack there becomes a visible hole at the top. |
| The ghost is lopsided | Cords were added unevenly around the expansion rounds. Count your additions per round rather than filling gaps by eye — a round with three additions on one side and one on the other grows crooked. |
| It stays flat like a coaster | You're still adding cords. The dome only starts once you stop — that's Step 5, eight full rounds with no additions. |
| It sags and won't stand | Loose tension, or not enough rounds after you stopped adding. Aim for six rounds minimum in the hold phase and pull every knot to the same firmness. Do not add stuffing — it pushes outward against the curve. |
| The surface looks lumpy rather than round | Tension is uneven rather than loose. Consistency matters more than tightness here — a uniformly medium tension domes better than a mix of tight and slack. |
| The arms work loose | Step 8's locking row was skipped. Tucked ends alone won't survive a season in a storage box; the extra round is what holds them. |
| The scallops are uneven | The eye compares scallops to each other instantly, so small differences show. Count the knots per scallop rather than judging the curve. |
| The eyes look grey, not black | The string wraps are too loose or too few. Wrap repeatedly and keep the tension up — density is what makes them read as black from across a room. |
| Ends poke out of the surface | Use the crochet hook to pull them properly inside rather than pushing with fingers. Everything hides in the hollow centre; nothing needs cutting flush. |
What to Make Next
🔗 You can knot in the round now. Here's where that goes:
- 4 spooky macrame projects — more Halloween decor to make alongside this
- Macrame pumpkin — the companion autumn piece: same technique, ribbed body, plus a guide to storing seasonal macrame
- 3D macrame Christmas tree — the same expand-and-flare logic, repeated as tiers
- Mini 3D tree ornament — a smaller, faster version of the same technique
- Bear ornament — expand, hold, close, then add ears separately
🎨 Want PDF patterns? Browse the macrame pattern library.
Prefer to buy finished? Handmade pieces are on our Etsy shop.
What Will You Make Next?
There's a particular moment that arrives about ten minutes after you finish a piece. It's standing on the shelf, holding its own shape, and you're already wondering what else you could knot in the round
That moment is worth paying attention to, because it's usually where things stall — and almost never for the reason people assume. It isn't that the interest fades. You've just spent an afternoon proving otherwise. It's that deciding what to make next turns out to be harder than making it. So the cord goes back in the drawer, and three months later it's still in the drawer.
I built the Bochiknot community to close that gap. Every month there's a new pattern and a full video tutorial already waiting for you, alongside everything published before it. The deciding is done. You just turn up and make.
Tier 1: Mini-Macramé Creations
or $6.40 a month paid annually
A new project waiting for you at the start of every month.
- A new #MakingMacrame pattern and full video tutorial, monthly
- The complete pattern archive, open whenever inspiration strikes
- Cancel or change tier at any time
For: makers who simply want to keep going, without spending an evening hunting for what's next.
Tier 2: Mastering Macramé Skills
or $10.40 a month paid annually
The month you stop following patterns and start reading them.
- Everything in Tier 1
- A 300+ video library of lessons, guidance and challenges
- Technique breakdowns that explain why a knot behaves as it does
For: makers who've noticed they can follow a pattern but couldn't yet write one. This is where that changes — and it's the tier most people choose.
Tier 3: Macramé Masterpiece Lite
or $23.20 a month paid annually
Everything above, and the cord arrives at your door.
- Everything in Tier 2
- A curated, ready-to-make kit delivered every third month
- No sourcing, no half-used rolls piling up
For: makers who love the making and have quietly grown tired of the shopping for it.
Which one, honestly?
If what you want is a next project each month, Tier 1 does exactly that and nothing more — and there is nothing wrong with wanting only that.
Tier 2 is for a different itch. If this ghost left you wondering how you'd design your own 3D shape — a cat, a bat, a pumpkin with the proportions you want — that's the beginning of designing rather than following, and the video library is built around exactly that question. It's the tier most people settle on
Tier 3 is for the maker who has done enough projects to know that sourcing cord is the part they like least.
All three can be paid annually for around 20% less, and Patreon lets you change tier or leave whenever you like — there's nothing to cancel by email and no minimum term.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does macrame hold a 3D shape without wire or stuffing?
The shape comes from when you stop adding cords. Each round of double half hitch knots has a fixed circumference set by its cord count — add cords and the round widens, so the work grows outward flat. Stop adding, and every round below has the same cord count as the one above it, but the knots take up space, so the round can't lie flat and curves inward instead. Repeat that over eight or ten rounds and you have a dome.
Do I need to stuff a macrame ghost?
No, and stuffing actively makes it worse. It pushes outward against exactly the rounds that are trying to curve inward, so it fights the shape rather than supporting it — you end up with something lumpy that's lost its dome. If your piece won't hold up, the fix is firmer, more consistent tension or a few more rounds.
Why does my macrame ghost stay flat like a coaster?
You're still adding cords. Expansion rounds grow the work outward; the dome only begins once the additions stop. In this pattern that's Step 5 — eight complete rounds with no new cords.
Why won't my 3D macrame stand up?
Either the tension is too loose, or there aren't enough rounds after you stopped adding. A dome needs about six rounds minimum in the hold phase for the curve to develop, and every knot wants pulling to the same firmness. Consistency matters more than tightness.
How do I control how much the shape curves?
By how abruptly you stop adding. Stopping all at once gives a steep, rounded dome — good for ghosts, baubles and pumpkins. Tapering off gradually, adding two cords on one round then one on the next, gives a shallower curve better suited to bells and bowls. Adding cords again lower down flares the shape back out into a skirt or hem.
What cord works best for 3D macrame?
3mm single-strand cotton. It's stiff enough to hold a curve without being hard to knot. Very soft, fuzzy or fine cord won't hold shape at all — which is why the 1.5mm string here is used only for the face. Braided cord holds shape marginally better than 3-ply.
Is this macrame ghost beginner friendly?
Not quite. It's better described as advanced beginner or intermediate — it uses a great many double half hitch knots and relies on careful shaping. The individual knots are all basic, so the difficulty is patience and tension rather than technique.
What knots do I need to know before making this?
The double half hitch is the important one, and it does roughly ninety percent of the work. You'll also use reverse lark's head knots to add cords, square knots to secure the arms, half hitches, and double overhand knots to finish.
Do I need a crochet hook for this project?
Yes, for Steps 6 and 10 where cords get woven through already-knotted rows and pulled inside. Any crochet hook works — it only has to grab a cord and pull it through. Doing it with fingers is possible but slow and frustrating.
How long does a macrame ghost take to make?
One to two hours. The expansion rounds go quickly; the eight hold rounds are the slow part because they're the same knot repeated with no visible progress until the dome suddenly appears.
How big is the finished ghost?
Around 20–30 cm, or 8–12 inches tall, depending on your tension. Tighter knotting produces a slightly smaller, denser ghost.
Can I make a bigger macrame ghost?
Yes. Add another expansion round of four cords before you stop, and give yourself two or three extra rounds in the hold phase. Height comes from the number of rounds and width comes from the number of additions — they're separate controls, so you can adjust either independently.
Can I change the cord lengths?
Yes, but keep the proportions. The lengths shorten as the rounds get smaller, which is the expansion built into the cut list. If you lengthen everything by the same percentage the ghost simply scales up.
What size cord is used for the ghost body and face?
3mm single-strand cotton for the body, and 1.5mm string in black for the eyes and mouth. The contrast in weight is deliberate — fine string gives crisp facial features that 3mm cord couldn't produce at that scale.
Why do my ghost's eyes look grey instead of black?
The string wraps are too loose or too few. Wrap repeatedly around the cord and keep the tension up; density is what makes the eyes read as solid black from across a room.
How do I hide the cord ends?
Use the crochet hook to pull them into the hollow centre of the ghost. Nothing needs trimming flush and nothing needs glue — the knots hold the ends once they're tucked inside.
What else can I make with this technique?
Almost anything domed. A pumpkin is expand-hold-close with symmetrical ends. A bauble is a short hold and a tight close. A bell is expand with the additions tapering off and never closing. A Christmas tree is repeated expand-and-flare cycles, one per tier.
Can I sell macrame ghosts made from this pattern?
Yes. Double half hitch, lark's head and square knots are traditional techniques rather than proprietary designs, so anything you make is yours to sell. Please just don't redistribute the tutorial itself.
Where can I buy the cord used here?
The 3mm cotton cord, 1.5mm string, scissors and tool kits are all on Bochiknot.com, and our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Keep Learning with Bochiknot
4 Spooky Macramé Projects
More Halloween decor to make alongside the ghost — a full set for one afternoon.
See the Halloween projects
3D Macramé Christmas Tree
The same expand-and-flare logic, repeated as tiers. The natural next 3D project.
Make the 3D tree
Macramé Pumpkin
The companion autumn piece — same knotting in the round, with endless falls ribs. Also covers storing seasonal macramé.
Make the pumpkin
Macramé Bear Ornament
Expand, hold, close — then ears added as separate pieces. A different 3D shape.
Make the bear
Double Half Hitch Tutorial
The knot doing ninety percent of the work here, shown at every angle.
Learn the double half hitch
5 Tips for Double Half Hitches
Tension habits that matter — and tension is what decides whether the ghost stands.
Read the 5 tipsYou Might Also Be Interested In
3mm Cotton Cord
The ghost body. Stiff enough to hold a dome, soft enough to knot comfortably.
Shop 3mm cord
1.5mm Macramé String
For the eyes and mouth. 100m, so it outlasts a great many ghosts.
Shop 1.5mm string
Cord Calculator
Free tool — scale the ghost up and it works out the new lengths.
Open the calculator
About Nicole Woo
Nicole is the founder of Bochiknot and has been teaching macrame for 5+ years to a community of 100,000+ makers across YouTube, Instagram and Patreon. She specialises in beginner-friendly cotton cord projects that feel approachable no matter your skill level.
Join her on Patreon for exclusive patterns, or explore individual ebook patterns.
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