How to Make a Macrame Pumpkin for Fall Decor
Knotted in the round with endless falls ribs, no wire and no stuffing. Twelve steps, one cord size, and a pumpkin that sits on a shelf from September through November — then packs away without losing its shape.
Last updated: September 4, 2026
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A Note from Nicole
Seasonal decorations have an odd life. You make them in an afternoon, they sit out for eight or ten weeks, and then they spend the rest of the year in a box.
Which means the thing nobody tells you about a macrame pumpkin is that how you store it matters almost as much as how you knot it. A cotton pumpkin left under something heavy for ten months comes out of the box flat, and most people assume it is ruined. It isn't — but you do have to know that before you pack it, not after.
So I have written the storage guide into this post rather than leaving it as an afterthought. It applies to every seasonal piece you make, not just this one.
As for the pumpkin itself: it is knotted in the round, ribbed with endless falls sections, and holds its shape with nothing inside it. If you have made the ghost, the technique will feel familiar — same principle, different silhouette.
A macrame pumpkin is a three-dimensional fall decoration knotted in the round from a single cord size, using rows of double half hitch knots that expand outward to form the belly and then narrow back in, with endless falls sections worked vertically to create the ribs. It holds its shape with no wire, stuffing or glue. This pattern uses 3mm single-strand cotton cord, takes two to three hours, and finishes at roughly 20–30 cm (8–12 inches).
Quick Answer
- Skill level: Intermediate to advanced ★★★★☆
- Time: 2–3 hours.
- Finished size: 20–30 cm (8–12″).
- Cord: 3mm single-strand cotton throughout — one weight, no second material.
- Ribs: Endless falls sections worked vertically.
- Structure: None. No wire, stuffing or glue.
- Also inside: how to store seasonal macrame so it survives ten months in a box.
- Made the ghost? Same technique, different shape.
🎥 Watch the video first. Endless falls sections worked in the round are genuinely difficult to read from still photographs.
What's in this tutorial
- Materials you'll need
- Cord cut lengths
- The knots you'll use
- Project details at a glance
- Watch the video tutorial
- Phase 1: The top and the ribs (Steps 1–6)
- Phase 2: The belly (Steps 7–9)
- Phase 3: Stem and finishing (Steps 10–12)
- Storing seasonal macrame (and reviving it)
- Where first attempts usually go wrong
- What to make next month
- FAQ
Materials You'll Need
One cord size and a crochet hook. That is genuinely the whole list — there is nothing inside a macrame pumpkin.
3mm Cotton Cord
The whole pumpkin. Rust, cream and sage all read as fall — one roll makes several.
Macrame Tool Kit
Includes the crochet hook you'll need at Step 10 to pull the stem through.
Not sure which cord? Read the complete guide to selecting macrame cord. Our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Cord Cut Lengths
Six groups, all 3mm. Cut them all before you start — stopping mid-round to measure is how tension gets lost.
| Length | Qty | What it's for |
|---|---|---|
| 750 cm (295″) | 1 | The long working cord that travels every round |
| 700 cm (276″) | 5 | The endless falls rib sections |
| 80 cm (31″) | 1 | The top loop (Step 1) |
| 70 cm (28″) | 12 | First expansion round (Step 4) |
| 50 cm (20″) | 12 | Added to the centre of each section (Step 6) |
| 50 cm (20″) | 1 | Closing the base (Step 11) |
Those long cords are not a typo. A 750 cm working cord looks absurd coiled on a table, but endless falls sections consume cord at a rate that catches everyone out the first time. Cut them long — running short mid-rib means undoing the whole section.
📏 Scaling it? Width comes from how many cords you add in the expansion rounds; height comes from how many rounds you work before narrowing. Our free cord calculator handles the lengths.
The Knots You'll Use
Three, and the double half hitch does most of it. The endless falls is the one that gives this pumpkin its ribs.
Double Half Hitch
Every round of the body. Worth a refresher before you start — you will tie a great many.
Learn the double half hitch
Reverse Lark's Head
Fills the gaps in Step 4, which is what widens the pumpkin into its belly.
Learn the reverse lark's head
Endless Falls
Worked vertically to form the ribs — the detail that makes this read as a pumpkin rather than a ball.
Learn the endless fallsProject Details at a Glance
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate to advanced ★★★★☆ |
| Time | 2–3 hours |
| Finished size | 20–30 cm (8–12″) |
| Cord | 3mm single-strand cotton throughout |
| Internal structure | None — no wire, stuffing or glue |
| Knots | Double half hitch, reverse lark's head, endless falls |
| Tools | Scissors, measuring tape, crochet hook |
| Steps | 12, in three phases |
🔮 How does it hold its shape? The same way the ghost does — you expand the rounds by adding cords, then stop, and rows that cannot widen begin to curve inward. The full explanation, including how to control the curve, is in the macrame ghost tutorial.
Watch the Video Tutorial
▶ Watch full-screen on YouTube →
Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial
Twelve steps in three phases. You work from the stem end down, so the pumpkin builds upside down in your hands and only looks right at the very end.
The Top and the Ribs
Steps 1-6 start at the stem end, expand outward, and build the endless falls sections that become the pumpkin's ribs.
Create the Top Loop and Attach the First Cords
- Fold the 80 cm cord in half to create the top loop.
- Attach five 70 cm cords onto the loop using reverse lark’s head knots.
- Pull the anchor cord evenly to tighten the loop neatly in the center
Add the Long Working Cord and Create the First Circular Row
- Attach the 750 cm cord onto any vertical cord using a double half hitch knot.
- Use the long working cord to make double half-hitch knots around each vertical cord.
- Continue all the way around the circle to form the first rim row.
Create a Second Row With More Spacing
- Make another full row of double half hitch knots using the same long working cord.
- Leave slightly more space between each knot than in the first row.
- Keep the spacing even so the pumpkin body begins expanding outward.
Fill the Gaps With Reverse Lark’s Head Knots
- Fold a 70 cm cord in half and attach it into one of the gaps using a reverse lark’s head knot.
- Repeat until every gap around the pumpkin contains a new cord.
- Tighten each attachment evenly to keep the shape balanced.
Build the First Row of Endless Falls Sections
- Use the two cords from one reverse lark’s head knot to create an Endless Falls knot onto the horizontal cord.
- Make a double half hitch knot onto the next vertical cord.
- Repeat this sequence all the way around to create the pumpkin’s ribbed texture.
Add 50 cm Cords to the Center of Each Section
- Attach a 50 cm cord onto the horizontal cord using a reverse lark’s head knot.
- Use the outer cords above it to make half hitch knots toward the center.
- Close each section with a double half hitch knot.
The ribs are set
Six steps in and the endless falls sections are running down the body. Everything below is shaping.
The belly comes next.
The Belly
Steps 7-9 reach the widest point, then tighten and narrow. This is where the round shape forms.
Expand the Pumpkin Body
- Make a half hitch knot on the left, an Endless Falls knot in the center, and a half hitch knot on the right.
- Finish each section with a double half hitch knot.
- Repeat for three full rows to widen the pumpkin body.
Tighten the Shape to Form the Curve
- Continue the same knot pattern while pulling the sections inward more tightly.
- Tighten the closing double half-hitch knots firmly.
- Repeat another full row to create the rounded pumpkin shape.
Narrow the Lower Body
- Stop using the middle cords and leave them tucked inside the pumpkin.
- Use only the outer cords to create Endless Falls knots onto the horizontal cord.
- Repeat for three rows to taper the lower section inward.
It's a pumpkin now
Widest point reached and narrowed back in. Set it down and look at the silhouette — this is the shape you'll keep.
Three steps to go.
Stem and Finishing
Steps 10-12 pull the stem through, close the base and shape the finished pumpkin.
Pull the Inner Cords Through the Top
- Pull several loose inner strands through the top center opening.
- These strands will later become the pumpkin stem tuft.
- Adjust the strands evenly before continuing.
Close the Bottom of the Pumpkin
- Make a full row of double half-hitch knots around the base.
- Tuck the remaining loose cords inside the pumpkin.
- Add one more tightening row until the base fully closes.
Finish the Pumpkin
- Trim away the excess outer cords and tuck remaining ends inside.
- Use a separate 50 cm cord to create a gathering knot around the top strands.
- Trim the top cords to your preferred length to complete the Mini Macramé Pumpkin.
Squat beats spherical
Shape it with your fingers from the inside and let it sit slightly wider than it is tall. Real pumpkins are never perfect spheres, and yours will look more convincing for it.
Tag #BochiknotPumpkin on Instagram — a cluster of three in different sizes looks far better than one.
Storing Seasonal Macrame (and Reviving It)
A seasonal decoration is out for about ten weeks and boxed for forty-two. That ratio is worth thinking about before you pack it away for the first time, because cotton takes a set — and a pumpkin that spent ten months under a box of baubles comes out looking like a cushion.
The good news is that almost nothing is permanent. The bad news is that people usually find that out after throwing the piece away.
How to pack it
- Never at the bottom of a box. This is the whole problem in one sentence. Weight on a hollow knotted shape flattens it, and cotton holds the crease. Seasonal macrame goes on top, always.
- Loosely stuff it for storage only. Stuffing ruins the shape while you are making it, but a light ball of tissue paper inside during storage keeps the dome from collapsing under its own weight. Take it out when you unpack.
- A shoebox beats a bin bag. Rigid sides mean nothing can press in. One pumpkin per box if you have the room; a soft bag offers no protection at all.
- Somewhere dry, not the loft or garage. Cotton absorbs damp and holds it. Damp cord invites mildew and goes stiff and grey over a winter. A wardrobe shelf indoors is better than any outbuilding.
- Keep it out of light. Ten months of daylight fades dyed cord noticeably. A closed box solves this for free.
Reviving something that has been squashed
If you have already opened a box and found a flat pumpkin, work through these in order. Most pieces come back fully.
| Problem | What to do |
|---|---|
| Slightly flattened | Work it with your fingers from the inside, pushing the dome back out. Ten minutes of patient shaping fixes most of it. |
| Properly crushed | Stuff it firmly with tissue paper, leave it for two or three days, then unstuff. The cord relaxes back into the fuller shape. |
| Set-in creases | Steam gently — a kettle at arm's length or a steamer on its lowest setting. Do not press an iron onto it. Shape while damp and let it dry stuffed. |
| Fuzzy or fluffed cord | Normal for cotton and largely cosmetic. Trim stray fibres with sharp scissors; do not pull them, or you will unseat a knot. |
| Dusty | A hairdryer on cool, or a soft brush. Dust sits on the surface of knots and lifts off easily — there is no need to wash it. |
| Musty smell | Air it outside on a dry day, out of direct sun. If it persists the piece was stored damp, and that is the thing to change next year. |
| Loose knots after handling | Work the slack along the row with a fingernail rather than pulling one knot tight, which just moves the problem along. |
What not to do
- Don't machine wash it. Cotton cord shrinks unevenly and the knots tighten irregularly. A 3D piece will not survive a spin cycle.
- Don't iron it directly. Heat and pressure flatten the very texture you spent three hours knotting.
- Don't vacuum-bag it. Compression is precisely what you are trying to avoid.
- Don't store it stuffed with newspaper. Ink transfers onto light cord over months. Plain tissue or acid-free paper only.
💡 Label the box. Trivial, and it saves the piece. Most seasonal macrame is crushed by someone stacking things on a box they did not know was fragile — usually the person who made it, eleven months later.
All of this applies equally to macrame ghosts, Christmas trees, ornaments and wreaths — anything hollow, knotted and seasonal.
Where First Attempts Usually Go Wrong
| What happens | Why, and how to fix it |
|---|---|
| A hole at the stem end | The top loop in Step 1 wasn't pulled tight before the first round. Everything grows from it, so slack there becomes a visible gap that can't be closed later. |
| You run out of cord mid-rib | The long cords look excessive and aren't. Endless falls sections consume cord fast — cut the full 700 cm and 750 cm lengths even when they seem absurd. |
| The ribs drift out of line | Cords weren't added to the centre of each section at Step 6. Count the additions per section; drifting ribs read as dents once the body rounds out. |
| It stays tubular instead of rounding | You haven't stopped expanding. The curve only begins once you stop adding cords — that's Step 7. |
| Top and bottom halves don't match | Uneven narrowing at Step 9. The narrowing should mirror the expansion in reverse, round for round. |
| The ribs pucker | Step 8 was tightened too abruptly. Work the tension in gradually around the whole round rather than pulling one section firm at a time. |
| It sits at an angle | The base closure at Step 11 is loose or off-centre. Pull it firmly and check the pumpkin sits flat before you trim the stem. |
| It looks like a ball, not a pumpkin | Too spherical. Shape it slightly squat with your fingers — wider than it is tall. Real pumpkins are never round. |
What to Make Next
🔗 You can knot in the round now. Here's where that goes:
- Macrame ghost sculpture — the companion Halloween piece, and where the 3D principle is explained in full
- Macrame Halloween projects — the full seasonal roundup
- 3D Christmas tree — repeated expand-and-flare tiers
- Bear ornament — expand, hold, close, then ears added separately
🎨 Want PDF patterns? Browse the macrame pattern library.
Prefer to buy finished? Handmade pieces are on our Etsy shop.
What Will You Make Next?
There's a particular moment that arrives about ten minutes after you finish a piece. It's sitting on the shelf where it will live until November, and you're already thinking you should make two more in different sizes
That moment is worth paying attention to, because it's usually where things stall — and almost never for the reason people assume. It isn't that the interest fades. You've just spent an afternoon proving otherwise. It's that deciding what to make next turns out to be harder than making it. So the cord goes back in the drawer, and three months later it's still in the drawer.
I built the Bochiknot community to close that gap. Every month there's a new pattern and a full video tutorial already waiting for you, alongside everything published before it. The deciding is done. You just turn up and make.
Tier 1: Mini-Macramé Creations
or $6.40 a month paid annually
A new project waiting for you at the start of every month.
- A new #MakingMacrame pattern and full video tutorial, monthly
- The complete pattern archive, open whenever inspiration strikes
- Cancel or change tier at any time
For: makers who simply want to keep going, without spending an evening hunting for what's next.
Tier 2: Mastering Macramé Skills
or $10.40 a month paid annually
The month you stop following patterns and start reading them.
- Everything in Tier 1
- A 300+ video library of lessons, guidance and challenges
- Technique breakdowns that explain why a knot behaves as it does
For: makers who've noticed they can follow a pattern but couldn't yet write one. This is where that changes — and it's the tier most people choose.
Tier 3: Macramé Masterpiece Lite
or $23.20 a month paid annually
Everything above, and the cord arrives at your door.
- Everything in Tier 2
- A curated, ready-to-make kit delivered every third month
- No sourcing, no half-used rolls piling up
For: makers who love the making and have quietly grown tired of the shopping for it.
Which one, honestly?
If what you want is a next project each month, Tier 1 does exactly that and nothing more — and there is nothing wrong with wanting only that.
Tier 2 is for a different itch. If this pumpkin left you wondering how you'd design your own 3D shape — an acorn, a gourd, a bauble with the proportions you want — that's the beginning of designing rather than following, and the video library is built around exactly that question. It's the tier most people settle on
Tier 3 is for the maker who has done enough projects to know that sourcing cord is the part they like least.
All three can be paid annually for around 20% less, and Patreon lets you change tier or leave whenever you like — there's nothing to cancel by email and no minimum term.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you store macrame pumpkins and seasonal decorations?
Never at the bottom of a box — weight flattens a hollow knotted shape and cotton holds the crease. Stuff it lightly with tissue paper for storage only, put it in a rigid box rather than a bag, keep it somewhere dry indoors rather than a loft or garage, and keep it out of daylight so dyed cord doesn't fade.
My macrame pumpkin got squashed in storage. Can I fix it?
Almost always, yes. If it's slightly flattened, work it back out with your fingers from the inside. If it's properly crushed, stuff it firmly with tissue paper and leave it two or three days — the cord relaxes back. For set-in creases, steam gently at arm's length, shape while damp and let it dry stuffed.
Should I stuff a macrame pumpkin?
Not while you're making it — stuffing pushes outward against the rounds that are trying to curve inward, so it fights the shape. But a light ball of tissue paper inside during storage is a good idea, because it stops the dome collapsing under whatever sits near it. Take it out when you unpack.
Can I wash a macrame pumpkin?
Not in a machine. Cotton cord shrinks unevenly and the knots tighten irregularly, and a 3D piece won't survive a spin cycle. For dust, use a hairdryer on cool or a soft brush — dust sits on the surface of knots and lifts off easily.
Will my macrame pumpkin fade?
Dyed cord fades noticeably after months in daylight. Ten weeks on a shelf each autumn is fine; ten months on a sunny windowsill is not. Storing it in a closed box solves this at no cost.
What knots are used in this macrame pumpkin?
Double half hitch for every round of the body, reverse lark's head knots to add cords during the expansion, and endless falls sections worked vertically to create the ribs.
What size cord is used for the macrame pumpkin?
3mm single-strand cotton throughout — there's no second cord weight in this pattern. Rust, cream and sage all read as autumn colours.
Why does the pumpkin shape widen and then narrow?
Because you stop adding cords. Adding cords widens each round, so the work grows outward. Once you stop, the rounds have the same cord count but the knots take up space, so they can't lie flat and curve inward instead. Narrowing at the end mirrors that expansion in reverse.
Why are the cord lengths so long?
Endless falls sections consume cord far faster than people expect. The 750 cm working cord and the 700 cm rib cords look excessive coiled on a table, but running short mid-rib means undoing an entire section — so cut them full length even when it feels wasteful.
What do I do with the extra cords inside the pumpkin?
Pull them through to the inside with a crochet hook and leave them there. The pumpkin is hollow, nothing shows, and nothing needs trimming flush or gluing — the knots hold the ends once they're tucked in.
Is this macrame pumpkin beginner-friendly?
Not really — it's intermediate to advanced. The individual knots are basic, but working in the round, keeping ribs even, and controlling the expansion and narrowing all take patience. If you've made a flat wall hanging before, this is a reasonable step up.
How is the top of the macrame pumpkin finished?
The inner cords are pulled up through the top with a crochet hook to form the stem, then trimmed to length. You can comb the stem out for a fuller look or leave it tight and neat.
How long does a macrame pumpkin take to make?
Two to three hours. The endless falls ribs are the slow part; the expansion and narrowing rounds go relatively quickly once the ribs are set.
How big is the finished pumpkin?
Around 20–30 cm, or 8–12 inches, depending on your tension. Tighter knotting gives a smaller, denser pumpkin.
Can I make pumpkins in different sizes?
Yes, and a cluster of three in different sizes looks considerably better than one on its own. Width comes from how many cords you add in the expansion rounds; height comes from how many rounds you work before narrowing. They're separate controls.
What colours work best for a macrame pumpkin?
Rust, burnt orange, cream, sage and mustard all read as autumn. Undyed natural cotton is the safest choice if you want it to sit out from September through November rather than reading as strictly Halloween.
How does a macrame pumpkin hold its shape without wire?
The knots do it. Rounds that can no longer expand outward curve inward instead, and 3mm cotton is stiff enough to hold that curve. The full explanation, including how to control the rate of the curve, is in our macrame ghost tutorial.
Can I sell macrame pumpkins made from this pattern?
Yes. Double half hitch, lark's head and endless falls knots are traditional techniques rather than proprietary designs, so anything you make is yours to sell. Please just don't redistribute the tutorial itself.
Where can I buy the cord used here?
The 3mm cotton cord, scissors, combs and tool kits are all on Bochiknot.com, and our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Keep Learning with Bochiknot
Macramé Ghost Sculpture
The companion Halloween piece — and where the 3D shaping principle is explained in full.
Make the ghost
Macramé Halloween Projects
The full seasonal roundup, with every Halloween project in one place.
See all Halloween projects
3D Macramé Christmas Tree
Repeated expand-and-flare tiers. The next 3D project once autumn is over.
Make the 3D tree
Macramé Bear Ornament
Expand, hold, close — then ears added separately. A different 3D silhouette.
Make the bear
Cord Measuring Calculator
Scaling your pumpkin up or down? This works out the new lengths.
Open the calculatorYou Might Also Be Interested In
About Nicole Woo
Nicole is the founder of Bochiknot and has been teaching macrame for 5+ years to a community of 100,000+ makers across YouTube, Instagram and Patreon. She specialises in beginner-friendly cotton cord projects that feel approachable no matter your skill level.
Join her on Patreon for exclusive patterns, or explore individual ebook patterns.
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