How to Make a Macramé Half Mandala Wall Hanging
A 12-inch arc of diagonal rows and Berry knots, worked on a single dowel. Five knots you may already know, arranged in a way that looks far harder than it is.
Last updated: August 20, 2026
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A Note from Nicole
A mandala is the first pattern that makes people say you made that? — and it is also, quietly, one of the more forgiving ones to learn.
The reason is repetition. Almost everything here is a diagonal row of double half hitch knots worked into a V. You'll tie that shape perhaps fifteen times across twenty-two steps, and somewhere around the eighth your hands stop needing the instructions. The Berry knots are the only real flourish, and there are three of them.
What makes it look difficult from across a room is the arc. Rows radiating outward from a centre read as complicated, even when each individual row is something you learned in your first week.
This is a half mandala, so you're building the top half of that circle onto a 12″ dowel. It finishes at 12″ wide and 6″ long, and it takes an hour or two — an afternoon, really, with a cup of tea and the video open beside you.
A macramé half mandala wall hanging is a semicircular wall piece built from rows of knots that radiate outward from a central point, mounted along a horizontal dowel rather than worked in a full circle. This pattern uses five knots — the Lark's Head, double half hitch, square knot, Berry knot, and the Reverse Lark's Head plus Half Hitch — worked over 27 cords in five lengths of 3mm or 4mm single-strand cotton. It takes one to two hours and finishes at roughly 12 inches wide by 6 inches long, sized for a narrow wall, a gallery arrangement, or the space above a doorway.
Quick Answer
- Skill level: Confident beginner ★★☆☆☆ — five knots, all of them basic, repeated a lot.
- Time: 1–2 hours.
- Finished size: 12″ wide × 6″ long.
- Cord: 3mm or 4mm single-strand cotton. 27 cords in five lengths.
- Mount: One 12″ wooden dowel, or a piece of driftwood.
- Knots: Lark's Head, double half hitch, square knot, Berry knot, Reverse Lark's Head plus Half Hitch.
- Also inside: where a 12-inch piece actually works on a wall, and how high to hang it.
🎥 Watch the video alongside the photos. Steps 6 to 9 build the arc, and the Reverse Lark's Head plus Half Hitch in Step 9 is far easier to follow watching a pair of hands than reading a sentence.
What's in this tutorial
- Materials you'll need
- Cord cut lengths (and how to keep track of 27 cords)
- The five knots you'll use
- Project details at a glance
- Watch the video tutorial
- Phase 1: The centre panel (Steps 1–5)
- Phase 2: Drawing the arc (Steps 6–9)
- Phase 3: Filling the body (Steps 10–14)
- Phase 4: The outer edge and finishing (Steps 15–22)
- Where to hang it, and how high
- Where first attempts usually go wrong
- What to make next
- What to make next month
- FAQ
Materials You'll Need
A mandala needs very little. One roll of cord and a dowel is the whole shopping list; the rest are tools you probably already own.
3mm Single-Strand Cord
Steel blue shown here. One roll is plenty — the pattern uses about 27 metres.
🌿 Prefer driftwood? A 12″ length of driftwood works exactly as well as a dowel and gives the piece a softer, more organic top edge. Look for one that's reasonably straight along the section where the cords will mount.
Not sure which cord to pick? Read the complete guide to selecting macramé cord. Our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Cord Cut Lengths
Twenty-seven cords across five different lengths. It's the longest cut list in any of our beginner patterns, and it's worth cutting the lot before you tie anything.
| Length | Quantity | What it's for |
|---|---|---|
| 170 cm (67″) | 10 | The main body, mounted on the dowel in Step 1 |
| 150 cm (59″) | 1 | The long anchor cord that draws the arc (Step 6) |
| 120 cm (47″) | 2 | The outer arc cords (Step 9) |
| 70 cm (28″) | 2 | Extending the pattern to the dowel ends (Step 17) |
| 50 cm (20″) | 12 | Fill cords through the outer edge (Steps 15, 18) |
Around 27 metres of cord in total.
📏 A tip that saves a lot of muttering: cut all 27 cords first, then bundle each length with a loose slip knot or a bulldog clip and lay the bundles out left to right in the order you'll use them. Five loose piles of similar-looking cord on a table is how people end up mounting a 120 cm where a 170 should go — and you don't find out until four rows later.
Using a different cord size? These lengths are measured for 3mm. Thicker cord eats more length per knot, so a 4mm version wants roughly 10–15% more. Our free cord calculator will do the arithmetic for you.
The Five Knots You'll Use
Five knots, and four of them are ones you'll have met already. The double half hitch does most of the work — if you're comfortable with a diagonal DHH row, you're most of the way there.
Lark's Head Knot
Mounts all ten cords onto the dowel in Step 1, and reappears in its reverse and vertical forms right through the pattern.
Learn the Lark's Head
Double Half Hitch
The workhorse of this piece. Every diagonal row and every V-shape you tie across 22 steps is a DHH row — learn it well and the mandala follows.
Learn the double half hitch
Square Knot
Builds the V-shaped centre in Step 2, then returns at Step 14 to join the separate sections into one arc.
Learn the square knot
Berry Knot
The raised, three-dimensional bobble that people notice first. Three of them sit across the finished piece.
Learn the Berry knot
Reverse Lark's Head + Half Hitch
Adds new cords into the middle of a pattern without leaving a visible bump. Reads as fussy on paper; takes about ten seconds in the hand.
Learn this knotProject Details at a Glance
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Confident beginner ★★☆☆☆ |
| Time | 1–2 hours |
| Finished size | 12″ wide × 6″ long |
| Cord | 3mm or 4mm single-strand cotton, ~27 m |
| Cords to cut | 27, across five lengths |
| Mount | 12″ wooden dowel or driftwood |
| Knots | Five — all basic |
| Steps | 22, in four phases |
Watch the Video Tutorial
▶ Watch full-screen on YouTube →
Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial
Twenty-two steps, grouped into four phases. Phase 1 sets the centre, Phase 2 draws the arc, Phase 3 fills it in, and Phase 4 works out to the edges and finishes. A great deal of it is the same V-shaped row repeated, so the later phases move much faster than the early ones.
The Centre Panel
Steps 1-5 mount the cords and build the V-shaped centre. Everything after this hangs off the shape you set here.
Mount ten cords on the dowel
- Attach 10 x 170 cords onto the dowel's center using Lark's Head Knots.
Build the V-shaped square knot centre
- Make a V-shaped/upside-down Square Knot pattern. Make a row of 5 x Square Knots, 4, 3, 2, and finally, 1 Square knot at the bottom.
First diagonal DHH row on the left
- Make a diagonal row of a Double Half Hitch (DHH) Knots on the left side.
Second DHH row on the left
- Taking the 4th cord down from the top left, as the anchor cord, make another 6 x DHH to the right.
Mirror both rows on the right
- Repeat the same pattern on the right side.
The centre is set
Five steps in and the V-shaped centre panel is finished. Hold it up and check the two sides match — this is the easiest point to correct anything.
The arc comes next.
Drawing the Arc
Steps 6-9 add the long cords that curve outward. This is the half-mandala shape appearing.
Add the long anchor cord
- Take a strand of 150 cm cord and attach it loosely on the left side using a Lark’s Head Knot. Then measure the left cord end to 58 cm (23) and tighten the knot.
Sweep the DHH row across and back
- Use the right cord end as the cord for a row of DHH knots diagonally to the right then all the way back to the right side.
Secure the right-hand end
- Attach the cord on the right side with a Vertical Lark’s Head knot.
Add the outer arc cords
- Take a 120 cm strand of cord and attach it onto the empty loop on the right side with a Reverse Lark’s Head plus Half Hitch (“RLHPHH”) knot.
- Then repeat on the left side.
You can see the mandala now
The arc is drawn. From here it's filling in, and the knots get repetitive in the best way.
Thirteen steps left, and they go quickly.
Filling the Body
Steps 10-14 fill the arc with V-rows and Berry knots, then join the sections together.
Two V-rows through the centre
- With the middle 10 cord section, make 2 rows of V-shaped DHH knots.
Two V-rows on each side section
- With the left 8 cords, also make 2x V-shaped DHH knot rows.
- Then repeat the same pattern with the right 8 cords.
Berry knot at the centre
- Make a Berry knot with the 4 middle cords at the bottom and then make 2 more V-shaped DHH knots underneath using the adjacent left and right cords as anchor cords.
Berry knots on the side sections
- With the left section, make a Berry knot in the middle and then make 2x V-shaped DHH knot rows directly underneath.
- Repeat the same on the right section.
Join the sections with square knots
- Make a Square knot in between the left 2 sections and the right 2 sections.
Time for a cup of tea
The body is filled and the sections are joined. What's left is the outer edge and the fringe.
Eight steps to go.
The Outer Edge and Finishing
Steps 15-22 extend the pattern to the ends of the dowel, then trim.
Add fill cords beside the square knot
- Take 2 x 50 cm cords and attach them on the bottom loop to the left of the Square knot with a Reverse Lark’s Head knot.
- Then attach another 2 cords to the right of the Square knot.
Mirror the fill cords on the left
- Repeat the same on the left side.
Extend the ends of the dowel
- Attach a 70 cm cord onto the right side of the dowel with a Lark’s Head knot. Then make a Square knot with 2 cords to the left.
Add cords either side of the square knot
- Attach one 50 cm cord to the left and one to the right of the Square knot with a Reverse Lark’s Head knot.
- Repeat the same pattern on the left section.
Square knots and V-rows, middle-right
- With the middle-right section, skip the left 2 cords and make 2 Square knots and 1 Square knot underneath.
- Then make 2 V-shaped DHH knot rows.
Mirror on the middle-left
- Repeat the same pattern on the middle-left section.
Finish the outer sections
- With the far-left section, make 2 Square knots and 1 underneath. Then add 2 V-shaped DHH knot rows.
- Repeat the same pattern on the far-right section.
Trim and comb the fringe
- Trim and comb through the fringe.
That's a mandala
Give the fringe a final comb, hang it somewhere the light catches it, and stand back further than feels necessary — mandalas read best from across a room.
I'd love to see it — tag #BochiknotMandala on Instagram.
Where to Hang It, and How High
This is the part nobody tells you before you start, and it's the reason a lot of finished wall hangings end up in a cupboard. A piece can be beautifully knotted and still look wrong, purely because of where it ended up on the wall.
At 12″ wide by 6″ long, this mandala is a small piece. That's a strength — small pieces suit the awkward spots larger art can't fill — but it does mean the wall has to be chosen rather than settled for.
How high to hang it
The rule galleries use is that the centre of a piece sits at eye level, roughly 57 to 60 inches from the floor. That's a genuinely good default for a wall hanging with nothing beneath it.
When there is furniture below, the reference point changes: hang so the bottom of the piece sits 6 to 10 inches above the furniture. Closer than that looks crowded; further and the two stop reading as a pair and start looking like two unrelated things on the same wall.
| Where | How high | Does a 12″ piece work? |
|---|---|---|
| Empty wall | Centre at 57–60″ from the floor | Only on a narrow wall. On a broad empty wall it will look lost on its own — group it. |
| Above a sofa | Bottom edge 8–10″ above the back | Not alone. A sofa wants art around two-thirds of its width — pair the mandala with two or three other pieces. |
| Above a bed | Bottom edge 6–8″ above the headboard | Beautifully, centred over a single bed. Over a double, hang it as part of a group. |
| Above a doorway | Centred, 4–6″ above the frame | Ideal. This is the spot a 12″ piece was made for. |
| Narrow wall or alcove | Centre at eye level | Ideal. Anything wider than 12″ would crowd the space. |
| Beside a window | Align the top with the window frame | Very well — and side light picks out the texture of the knots. |
| Gallery wall | 2–3″ between frames | Excellent. Texture among flat frames is exactly what a gallery wall needs. |
| Above a desk or console | Bottom edge 6–8″ above the surface | Yes, if the furniture is under about 3 feet wide. |
Matching the piece to the wall
The guideline worth remembering: art should span roughly two-thirds the width of whatever sits beneath it. A 12″ mandala therefore suits furniture up to around 18″ wide — a narrow console, a bedside table, a small desk.
Above a sofa or a double bed, a single 12″ piece will look undersized no matter how high you hang it. That isn't a reason to avoid those walls; it's a reason to make two or three and hang them together, which frankly looks better than one large piece anyway.
Light, and what it does to cotton
Natural cotton cord will pale in strong direct sunlight over a year or two, and dyed colours shift faster than undyed ones. It's gradual rather than dramatic, and plenty of people never notice — but if you've made something in a colour you love, a wall that gets indirect light rather than a full afternoon sun will keep it truer for longer.
Actually fixing it to the wall
A finished 12″ mandala in 3mm cotton weighs very little — a few ounces. You don't need anything structural:
- A single small nail or picture hook is plenty, with the dowel resting on it or a length of cord tied between the dowel ends.
- Adhesive hooks work well at this weight and leave no holes, which matters if you rent. Check the wall is clean and dry first — they fail on dusty paint, not because of the weight.
- Two hooks, one at each dowel end, if you'd rather the dowel sat perfectly level and didn't shift when a door closes.
Whichever you use, live with it at that height for a day before committing. Walls look different at different times of day, and a piece that seemed slightly high at noon is often exactly right by evening.
Where First Attempts Usually Go Wrong
None of these ruin a mandala, and most take minutes to fix if you catch them in the same phase they happen. Listed roughly in the order they tend to occur.
| What happens | Why, and how to fix it |
|---|---|
| The whole piece sits off-centre on the dowel | The ten cords in Step 1 weren't centred. Mark the dowel's midpoint with a pencil before mounting anything and work outward from it — this is very hard to correct once the arc is built. |
| A cord turns out to be the wrong length | Five similar-looking piles on one table. Cut all 27 first, then bundle and label each length before you start. If you catch it early, replacing one cord costs a step; catching it at Step 14 costs an afternoon. |
| The diagonal rows aren't parallel | The anchor cord went slack partway along. It has to stay taut across the whole row — the knots wrap onto it, so any give in the anchor shows as a wobble in the line. |
| The two halves don't match | Work the right side by copying the left rather than counting from scratch, and hold the piece up every few knots. Symmetry is what the eye reads first in a mandala. |
| The arc looks flat rather than curved | Tension in Step 7. The curve comes from letting the anchor travel at a consistent angle — pulling it too tight straightens the row out. |
| The Berry knots sit at different heights | Step 13's three knots need to be level with one another. Measure down from the row above rather than judging by eye, because the eye is remarkably unforgiving about this one. |
| The pattern doesn't reach the dowel ends | Step 17's two 70 cm cords were skipped or attached too far in. They exist specifically to carry the design out to the full 12″. |
| The fringe looks ragged after trimming | Combed after cutting instead of before. Comb first, then hang it up, then trim — combing shifts the ends, so trimming first guarantees an uneven line. |
| Knots look loose and gappy | Even tension matters more than tight tension. Aim for every knot to feel the same rather than for all of them to be as tight as possible — uniformity is what reads as neat. |
What to Make Next
🔗 You now have five knots and a lot of DHH practice. Here's where they go:
- Mandala mirror with beads — a full mandala worked around a mirror
- Diamond lace pattern — more diagonal DHH, arranged differently
- How to add layers — give a flat wall hanging depth
- 7 ways to start and end a wall hanging — alternatives to the Lark's Head mount
🎨 Want PDF patterns? Browse the macramé pattern library.
Prefer to buy finished? Handmade pieces are on our Etsy shop.
What Will You Make Next?
There's a particular moment that arrives about ten minutes after you finish a piece. The fringe is combed, it's hanging on the wall, and you're already looking at it and thinking about what you'd do differently next time.
That moment is worth paying attention to, because it's usually where things stall — and almost never for the reason people assume. It isn't that the interest fades. You've just spent an afternoon proving otherwise. It's that deciding what to make next turns out to be harder than making it. So the cord goes back in the drawer, and three months later it's still in the drawer.
I built the Bochiknot community to close that gap. Every month there's a new pattern and a full video tutorial already waiting for you, alongside everything published before it. The deciding is done. You just turn up and make.
Tier 1: Mini-Macramé Creations
or $6.40 a month paid annually
A new project waiting for you at the start of every month.
- A new #MakingMacrame pattern and full video tutorial, monthly
- The complete pattern archive, open whenever inspiration strikes
- Cancel or change tier at any time
For: makers who simply want to keep going, without spending an evening hunting for what's next.
Tier 2: Mastering Macramé Skills
or $10.40 a month paid annually
The month you stop following patterns and start reading them.
- Everything in Tier 1
- A 300+ video library of lessons, guidance and challenges
- Technique breakdowns that explain why a knot behaves as it does
For: makers who've noticed they can follow a pattern but couldn't yet write one. This is where that changes — and it's the tier most people choose.
Tier 3: Macramé Masterpiece Lite
or $23.20 a month paid annually
Everything above, and the cord arrives at your door.
- Everything in Tier 2
- A curated, ready-to-make kit delivered every third month
- No sourcing, no half-used rolls piling up
For: makers who love the making and have quietly grown tired of the shopping for it.
Which one, honestly?
If what you want is a next project each month, Tier 1 does exactly that and nothing more — and there is nothing wrong with wanting only that.
Tier 2 is for a different itch. If you've worked through this mandala and found yourself wondering why the anchor cord has to stay taut, or what would happen if you added two more rows — that's the beginning of designing rather than following, and the video library is built around that question. It's the tier most people settle on.
Tier 3 is for the maker who has done enough projects to know that sourcing cord is the part they like least.
All three can be paid annually for around 20% less, and Patreon lets you change tier or leave whenever you like — there's nothing to cancel by email and no minimum term.
Frequently Asked Questions
How high should you hang a macramé wall hanging?
Hang it so the centre of the piece sits 57 to 60 inches from the floor — that's the standard galleries use, and it works because it puts the piece at eye level for most people. Where furniture sits below it, use the furniture as your reference instead: the bottom edge of the hanging should clear the top of the furniture by 6 to 10 inches. Closer looks crowded, further and the two stop reading as a pair.
Where should I hang a small 12-inch wall hanging?
Small pieces suit the spots larger art can't fill: above a doorway, in a narrow alcove, beside a window, or as part of a gallery wall. Where a 12-inch piece struggles is on a broad empty wall or above a sofa, because it looks undersized on its own — in those spots, hang two or three pieces together rather than one.
What size wall hanging do I need above a sofa?
As a rule, art should span about two-thirds the width of the furniture beneath it. A three-seater sofa around 84 inches wide therefore wants roughly 56 inches of art. A single 12-inch mandala won't carry that wall alone, but three of them hung together, or one mandala alongside a couple of framed prints, will.
Can I hang a macramé wall hanging without nails?
Yes. A 12-inch piece in 3mm cotton weighs only a few ounces, which is well within what adhesive hooks handle. They fail because of dusty or freshly painted walls rather than weight, so clean the spot and let it dry first. Good news if you rent — no holes to fill.
Will my macramé wall hanging fade?
In strong direct sunlight, gradually — over a year or two, and dyed colours shift faster than undyed cotton. It's slow enough that many people never notice. If you've made something in a colour you particularly like, a wall with indirect light rather than full afternoon sun will hold the colour longer.
What is a half mandala in macramé?
A half mandala is the top half of a circular mandala design, built as rows of knots radiating outward from a central point and mounted along a horizontal dowel. Because it's worked flat rather than in the round, it's considerably easier than a full mandala while producing much the same effect on a wall.
How many knots do you need for this pattern?
Five: the Lark's Head, double half hitch, square knot, Berry knot, and the Reverse Lark's Head plus Half Hitch. Four of the five are knots most beginners meet in their first few projects, and the double half hitch does the great majority of the work here.
Is a macramé mandala hard for a beginner?
Less than it looks. Nearly every row is the same diagonal double half hitch worked into a V-shape, repeated around fifteen times across the pattern — so the difficulty is really patience and counting rather than technique. If you're comfortable with a diagonal DHH row, you can make this.
How long does a half mandala wall hanging take?
One to two hours. The first phase is the slowest because you're setting the centre and checking symmetry; the later phases go much faster once the V-shaped row becomes automatic. It's a comfortable single-afternoon project.
How much cord do I need?
Twenty-seven cords in five lengths — 10 × 170 cm, 1 × 150 cm, 2 × 120 cm, 2 × 70 cm and 12 × 50 cm — which is around 27 metres in total. One roll of 3mm cord covers it with plenty left over.
Can I use 4mm cord instead of 3mm?
Yes, and it gives a chunkier, more textural finish. Thicker cord uses more length per knot, so add roughly 10 to 15 percent to every cut length. The finished piece will also come out slightly wider than 12 inches, so allow for that when choosing a wall.
How do I keep track of 27 cords in five lengths?
Cut all of them before you tie anything, then bundle each length with a loose slip knot or a bulldog clip and lay the bundles out left to right in the order the pattern uses them. Five similar-looking piles loose on a table is exactly how a 120 cm ends up where a 170 should have gone.
What can I use instead of a wooden dowel?
A 12-inch length of driftwood is the usual alternative and gives a softer, more organic top edge. A straight branch, a length of copper pipe or a piece of bamboo all work too. The only real requirement is that the mounting section is reasonably straight and strong enough to hold its shape.
Why won't my diagonal rows sit parallel?
Almost always a slack anchor cord. The knots wrap onto the anchor, so it has to stay taut across the entire row — any give partway along shows up as a wobble in the line. Keep gentle, constant tension on it with your non-dominant hand as you work.
My two halves don't match. Can I fix it?
If you catch it within the same phase, yes — untie back to the last row that was symmetrical and rework it. Later than that and it's usually not worth it. The way to avoid it is to build the right side by copying the left rather than counting again, and to hold the piece up every few knots.
Should I comb the fringe before or after trimming?
Comb first, then hang the piece up, then trim. Combing shifts the cord ends around, so if you trim first you'll comb your straight line out again. Trimming while it hangs also lets gravity do the work of showing you where the real line is.
What is the Reverse Lark's Head plus Half Hitch used for?
It adds new cords into the middle of a pattern without leaving a visible bump where they join. In this piece it attaches the outer arc cords at Step 9. It reads as fussy written down and takes about ten seconds once you've seen it done — watch that part of the video.
Can I sell macramé wall hangings made from this pattern?
Yes. Lark's Head knots, double half hitches, square knots and Berry knots are traditional techniques rather than proprietary designs, so anything you make is yours to sell. The only thing I'd ask is that you don't redistribute the tutorial itself.
Where can I buy the cord and dowel used here?
The 3mm single-strand cord, 12-inch dowels, scissors and fringe combs are all on Bochiknot.com, and our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Keep Learning with Bochiknot
7 Ways to Start & End a Wall Hanging
You mounted this one with a Lark's Head. Here are six other ways to start a wall hanging — and how to finish the bottom edge so it looks deliberate.
See all 7 methods
How to Add Layers
A mandala is flat by design. Layering is how you give a wall hanging real depth without making it any bigger — useful on a wall that needs presence.
Learn to add layers
Square Rose Knot Wall Hanging
Two knots, one heart shape, and far fewer than 22 steps. A good project for an evening when you want to make something without committing an afternoon.
Make the heart hanging
Diamond Lace Pattern
The same diagonal double half hitch you have just spent two hours practising, arranged into a repeating lace panel you can drop into any wall hanging.
Get the lace pattern
Mandala Mirror With Beads
The full circle worked around a mirror, with beads through the outer rows. The natural step up once a half mandala feels comfortable.
Try the full mandala
Cord Measuring Calculator
Change cord size, or scale the mandala up for a wider wall, and this free tool works out every new cut length for you.
Open the calculatorYou Might Also Be Interested In
3mm Single-Strand Cord
Steel blue is the colour shown throughout this tutorial. One roll covers the mandala's 27 metres with plenty left over.
Shop 3mm cord
12" Wooden Dowels
Twelve inches, five to a pack — the exact length this pattern is built around, with four spares for whatever comes next.
Shop 12″ dowels
Rose Gold Scissors
Twenty-seven cuts in one sitting. Blunt scissors fray cord ends, and frayed ends are visible in the finished fringe.
Shop macramé scissors
Fringe Comb
Step 22 is where fringe becomes fringe. A comb is the difference between ends that hang and ends that fan.
Shop the fringe comb
Pattern Library
Downloadable PDF patterns you can print and keep beside you while you work, rather than scrolling a phone with cord in your hands.
Browse the pattern library
Cord Calculator
Change cord size, or scale the mandala up for a wider wall, and this free tool works out every new cut length for you.
Open the calculator
📸 Made one? Show us.
Tag #BochiknotMandala on Instagram — and tell us where you hung it. That's always the interesting part.
About Nicole Woo
Nicole is the founder of Bochiknot and has been teaching macramé for 5+ years to a community of 100,000+ makers across YouTube, Instagram and Patreon. She specialises in beginner-friendly cotton cord projects that feel approachable no matter your skill level.
Join her on Patreon for exclusive patterns, or explore individual ebook patterns.
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