How to Make a Macramé Wall Shelf (Free 12-Step DIY Tutorial + Video)
Last updated: 2026-06-25
Quick answer
What you’ll make: A 12" × 23.5" boho macramé wall shelf with decorative diamond knotwork, delicate daisy chains, and flowing fringe.
Skill level: Beginner to intermediate — if you’ve tied a lark’s head knot before, you can do this.
Time: 2–4 hours (I recommend splitting it across two sittings so your hands stay fresh)
Materials: 3mm single-strand cotton cord · 12" dowel or driftwood · a small wooden plank with 4 holes · sharp scissors
Cost: Under $20 total. Store-bought boho shelves at Anthropologie or West Elm run $65–$120.
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🎥 Prefer to watch? The full step-by-step video is embedded below — I recommend watching once end-to-end before you start, so the pattern flow makes sense.
What you’ll learn
- Materials & tools
- Skill level, size & cord lengths
- Full video tutorial
- Step 1–4: Build the diamond straps
- Step 5: Trim & save the scraps
- Step 6–8: Center daisy chain section
- Step 9: Mini diamonds under the straps
- Step 10–11: Attach & adjust the shelf
- Step 12: Finish the top handle
- Pro tips & common mistakes
- FAQ
Materials & Tools
You don’t need much to make this shelf — that’s part of what makes it such a satisfying project. Everything below is what I actually use in my studio; I’ve linked to the exact cord and tools I trust.
Cord & wood
- 3mm single-strand cotton cord — natural, unbleached. About 55 meters total (see cord lengths below). Shop the organic petite roll →
- 1 × 12" wooden dowel or piece of driftwood — dowel gives you a clean finish; driftwood adds organic boho character. Either works beautifully.
- 1 × 12" × 3" wooden plank with 4 holes (6–8mm hole diameter is easiest for threading two cords through). This is the shelf itself.
Tools
- Sharp fabric scissors — rose gold pair I use daily. Sharp scissors are honestly the difference between a professional-looking fringe and a fluffy mess.
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Optional: fringe comb for brushing out the tassel ends
- Optional: a wall hook or S-hook so you can hang it while working on the final adjustments
Macramé Shelf Details
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Beginner to intermediate — no advanced knots needed, just patience with tension. |
| Completed size | Approximately 12" wide × 23.5" tall (measured from top of handle to bottom of fringe) |
| Completion time | 2–4 hours — split into two sittings if your hands need a break |
| Cord needed | 3mm single-strand cotton cord, ~55m total |
| Extras needed | 12" dowel or driftwood + wooden plank with 4 holes |
Cord lengths to cut before you start
| Quantity | Length (metric) | Length (imperial) | Used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 440 cm | 173" | Side straps (diamond & wing pattern) |
| 4 | 180 cm | 71" | Center daisy chain sections |
| 12 | 65 cm | 26" | Center fringe (plus any strap scraps you save) |
Full Video Tutorial
Watching the video once end-to-end before you begin will save you time when you hit the daisy-chain and shelf-attachment sections. Those are the two spots where the written instructions make the most sense after you’ve seen the motion.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Twelve steps sound like a lot on paper, but they cluster into five natural phases: prep the cords, build both straps, add the center daisy chain, attach the shelf, and finish the top handle. Take breaks between phases if your hands need it.
Step 1: Attach the cords for the left strap
This is where the whole shelf begins — getting these first eight strands attached evenly makes everything downstream easier.
- Take four 440 cm cords. Fold each one in half and attach them to the left side of the dowel with lark’s head knots.
- Leave about 1 inch of space from the left end of the stick before placing the first cord. Attach the remaining three cords immediately to the right.
- Once attached, you’ll have eight working strands hanging down for the first strap.
Step 2: Build the first double-diamond section
The diamond section is the visual anchor of the strap. Take your time keeping the diagonals crisp; it’s the difference between polished and puckered.
- Start with the middle two cords and make a diagonal row of double half hitch knots to the left.
- Use the opposite middle cord to make three diagonal double half hitch knots to the right, forming the upper half of the outer diamond.
- Create the smaller inner diamond in the center using the middle cords, then close the inner diamond followed by the outer diamond.
- Keep the outer diamond corners sharp by tightening the knots without pulling the anchor cord too tightly.
Step 3: Add the wing pattern on both sides of the diamond
The wing shape softens the diamond’s geometry and gives the strap its boho character. Work slowly here — the angle sets the tone for the repeat.
- After the double diamond is finished, skip the center two cords for a moment and work the side “wing” or fan-shaped pattern.
- On the left side, angle the cord upward and make two double half hitch knots to the left. Then bring the same anchor cord back and make two knots to the right. Repeat one more row of two knots out and two knots back.
- Mirror the same shape on the right side.
Step 4: Repeat the diamond and wing sequence to form one full strap
Now you’re just repeating what you already know. This is the rhythmic, meditative part of the project. Put on a podcast.
- Under the wing pattern, create another double-diamond section in the middle. Then repeat the side wing pattern again, followed by another double diamond.
- One wing section plus one double-diamond section counts as one full repeating unit.
- Continue until you have four additional repeating sections beneath the first portion. By the end, the full left strap should look long, balanced, and decorative.
- Then repeat the exact same strap pattern on the right side of the dowel using the other four 440 cm cords.
Step 5: Trim the excess from both straps and save the scraps
Trimming feels final but it isn’t — save every scrap. Those little offcuts become your center fringe later, and you’ll be glad you kept them.
- Once both side straps are complete, the cords at the bottom won’t all be the same length. Some strands will be noticeably shorter because they have been used more heavily as working cords.
- Find the shortest cords in each strap bundle and trim the longer ones to roughly match that level. You should remove about six cords’ worth of excess from each side.
- Save these trimmed pieces. Some of the longer leftovers will be cut in half and used later as fringe cords.
Step 6: Add the center cords and start the left daisy chain
The daisies are pure ornamentation. Small mistakes are almost invisible here, so relax the tension slightly and enjoy the detail work.
- Attach two 180 cm cords on each side of the middle area of the dowel.
- Begin a mini daisy pattern on the left center section by using the middle two cords and working outward with diagonal double half hitch knots to form a small diamond.
- Before completing the second knot on the lower side, weave two fringe cords through the far-left cord.
- Match the fringe cord ends, slide them upward into position, and then finish the knot to secure them in place.
New to macramé? Grab the free beginner guide.
The complete knot library (lark’s head, square, spiral, diagonal double half hitch, daisy chain) with photos + video links. Written for people making their very first project.
Download the free guide →Step 7: Make five mini daisies on the left, then five on the right
Making all ten daisies is easily the longest single step. Don’t force it — if you feel your hands cramping, this is a perfect spot to pause and pick up later.
- Continue the same process on the left until you have five mini daisy diamonds stacked downward. Each time, weave in two more 65 cm fringe cords before closing the shape.
- If the scrap cords from your earlier trim are not enough, cut fresh 65 cm cords as needed. The original leftover pieces provide some of the fringe, but additional cords may be required to complete both sides.
- Then repeat the full mini daisy sequence on the right side. This time the added fringe goes on the far right side so the two center sections angle inward toward one another.
Step 8: Connect the center sections and trim the middle fringe
This is where the piece starts to look like a real shelf. Connecting the sections and adding the fringe transforms it from “two loose panels” to a cohesive design.
- Once both inward-angled daisy chains are complete, separate the surrounding cords.
- Use the middle four cords to tie one more mini daisy in the center, joining the left and right sections together.
- Trim only the center fringe at the bottom into a soft, tapered point.
- Leave the side fringe as is, allowing it to fall naturally on a diagonal since all fringe cords were cut to the same length.
Step 9: Add a small mini diamond beneath each side strap
Mini diamonds are a small touch that adds a huge amount of polish. Don’t skip them — they’re what make the piece feel intentional.
- Before the shelf gets attached, go back to the lower ends of the left and right side straps. Using the middle four cords under each strap, make one small mini diamond or daisy shape.
Step 10: Thread the cords through the shelf holes
Threading through the shelf holes takes patience. If a cord is stubborn, twist it tightly between your fingers to create a firmer end that slides through more easily.
- Position the shelf underneath the straps.
- For the front holes, take the front four cords from each strap and thread the middle two through the front hole on each side. If the holes are tight, wrap the cord ends with tape or use a crochet hook to pull them through.
- For the back holes, take the back cords and thread the second cord in from each side through the back hole on each side.
- This arrangement helps the shelf sit in the correct orientation once tightened.
Step 11: Secure the shelf with overhand knots and adjust it while hanging
Hanging the shelf while you tighten the overhand knots is the secret. Gravity does half the leveling work for you.
- After threading the cords through the wood, gather each set of four cords under a hole and tie a large overhand knot directly beneath the shelf.
- Start with the front cords on both sides, then do the same with the back cords.
- Do not fully lock everything down while the piece is flat. Hang the shelf vertically first, then adjust the knots so the plank sits level and does not tilt forward, backward, or sideways. Once the shelf is hanging straight, tighten the knots where needed.
- Then trim the tassels underneath the shelf to match on both sides.
Step 12: Make the top handle and finish the piece
The top handle is a beautifully simple finish. Take a moment when you’re done to hang it and just look at it. You made this.
- Take a scrap cord around 50 cm long and use it to create the hanging handle across the top of the dowel.
- Anchor one end to the dowel with a double half hitch knot. Stretch the cord across to the other side and secure the opposite end the same way. Tuck or trim the excess neatly at the back.
- If any ends stick out too much, weave them through nearby loops or snip them cleanly.
Pro Tips for a Cleaner Finish
- Tension is everything. The most common giveaway of a beginner piece isn’t wonky knots — it’s uneven tension. Pull each knot with the same amount of pressure. If yours feels loose, it probably is.
- Hang it while you work from Step 4 onward. Working flat is fine for the diamonds, but gravity helps you see how the piece will actually drape.
- Save the scraps. I mean it. The center fringe eats more cord than you’d think.
- Comb before you trim the fringe. Brushing out the unraveled cord shows you the actual line before you cut — you’ll trim straighter and take off less.
- If a section feels wrong, undo it. I scrap and re-do sections all the time. It’s part of the craft, not a failure.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
| Mistake | Fix |
|---|---|
| Diamond looks lopsided | One side of the diagonal was pulled tighter than the other. Undo that row and re-tie with matched tension on both sides. |
| Straps are different lengths | You skipped or added a repeat. Count your diamonds — both straps should have the same number of full diamond-and-wing sequences. |
| Shelf tilts after assembly | The overhand knots underneath the shelf are unequal. Hang the piece vertically and tighten the front and back knots until the plank sits level. |
| Fringe is uneven | Comb everything straight first, THEN trim in one straight line. If it’s still uneven, trim in small increments — you can’t add cord back. |
| Cord frayed too much at the ends | Twist each cord end tightly between your fingers before threading through the shelf holes. A tiny dab of clear craft glue on stubborn ends helps. |
What to know before you start
The two spots most people get stuck: (1) the wing pattern in Step 3, because the diagonal changes direction — watch that section of the video twice; and (2) threading through the shelf holes in Step 10, because it’s fiddly. Neither is hard, just fussy. If you start feeling frustrated, put the piece down for 20 minutes. It’ll be there when you come back, and your patience will be too.
Ready for the next project?
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💛 Made this shelf?
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Frequently Asked Questions
What size is the finished macramé shelf?
The completed shelf is approximately 12 inches wide by 23.5 inches tall, measured from the top of the handle down to the bottom of the fringe.
Is this shelf tutorial suitable for beginners?
Yes. The pattern looks intricate but it relies mostly on repeated diagonal double half hitch knots, a few lark’s head knots, and simple overhand knots. It’s beginner-friendly as long as you work carefully and keep your tension consistent. If you’ve made a small wall hanging before, you’re ready for this.
What cord size should I use?
3mm single-strand cotton cord. Soft-but-sturdy natural cotton works especially well — it holds shape without fraying too easily. Avoid 4mm or thicker for this design; the diamond pattern loses definition at larger sizes.
How big should the shelf plank holes be?
6–8mm holes are ideal — comfortable for threading two strands of 3mm cord through each hole. A minimum of 4mm can work but you’ll fight it a bit.
Can I use a dowel instead of driftwood?
Absolutely. A 12" wooden dowel or a straight stick works well. Driftwood adds a slightly more organic boho feel but the construction is identical.
What if I run out of scrap cord for the fringe?
Just cut additional fringe cords at 65 cm long. The scraps from trimming the side straps usually cover most of it, but they may not stretch the full center.
Why does my shelf tilt after assembly?
The overhand knots underneath the plank are uneven. Hang the piece vertically before final tightening, then tweak the front and back knots until the shelf sits level.
How long does the whole project take?
2–4 hours depending on your pace. I recommend splitting it across two sittings — one for both straps, one for the daisy chain and assembly. It’s more enjoyable that way.
How much does this shelf cost to make?
Under $20 if you already have basic tools. A similar boho shelf at Anthropologie or West Elm runs $65–$120.
Can I sell this pattern or the finished shelf?
The finished shelf, yes — sell it at markets, on Etsy, anywhere. The pattern itself is copyrighted, so please don’t redistribute the tutorial as your own.
What knots do I need to know before starting?
Lark’s head knot, diagonal double half hitch, and overhand knot. If you’re rusty on any of them, we have full tutorials linked in the “Keep Learning” section below.
Where can I buy the exact cord and driftwood you use?
The 3mm natural cotton cord is available in the Bochiknot shop. Driftwood I usually source locally or from Etsy — search “craft driftwood 12 inch.”
Is this a good beginner project or should I start smaller?
If it’s your very first project, start with a smaller wall hanging or keychain first. If you’ve made one or two projects, this shelf is a great next step.
Can I hang this on drywall?
Yes, but use a wall anchor rated for at least 5 lb. The shelf itself is light, but once you load it with plants or books, weight adds up quickly.
How do I clean a macramé shelf?
Dust it gently with a soft brush or use a hair dryer on cool setting to blow dust out of the fringe. Avoid water — cotton cord soaks it up and takes forever to dry.
Where’s the best place to hang a macramé shelf?
Anywhere with soft lighting and room to breathe — bedroom nooks, above nightstands, bathroom vanities, entryways. Avoid direct sunlight for long stretches since it can gradually yellow natural cotton.
What’s the difference between a macramé shelf and a macramé plant hanger?
A shelf has a flat wooden surface for displaying items; a plant hanger holds a specific pot inside a cradle of knots. This project is the shelf version — more versatile because you can style it with anything.
Want to master more knots?
Download the free beginner ebook — the complete visual knot library plus 3 mini beginner projects to build your confidence.
Get the free guide →Keep Learning with Bochiknot
Pattern Library
Downloadable PDF patterns for wall hangings, bags, plant hangers & more.
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Final Thoughts
A macramé shelf is one of those projects that feels far more advanced than it actually is — which is exactly why I love teaching it. If you followed through to Step 12, you now have real experience with three foundational patterns (diamond, wing, daisy chain) that show up in dozens of other projects. Everything you build after this will feel a little easier.
If you make one, please tag @bochiknot — seeing your projects is genuinely the best part of my week.
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