7 Ways to Start & End a Macramé Wall Hanging (+ Free Videos)

Honestly? The thing that separates an okay macramé wall hanging from a stunning one isn't the knots in the middle. It's how you start and how you finish. The middle is where you get to play. The start is where you set the tone — the first thing the eye lands on. The end is the last impression, the part that hangs at eye level, the bit your friend touches when they walk past it. Both deserve their own minute of thought.

So this post is exactly that minute. Seven ways to start. Seven ways to end. Two free videos walking you through every single one. Every macramé end knot, every finishing knot, every mounting style I teach in workshops — all in one place. By the time you're done reading, you'll know exactly which combination of start and finish suits the wall hanging in your head. 🌿

What You'll Need to Start

Before you tie anything, let's pull together the basics. The good news? Macramé needs almost nothing — cord, an anchor, scissors, and your hands. Here's the proper checklist for a wall hanging.

• Cord — 4mm or 5mm single-strand cotton for most wall hangings. 4mm gives finer detail and a more delicate fringe; 5mm gives a chunkier, bolder look. Browse our 4mm cord collection or 5mm cord collection.
• Anchor — a wooden dowel, brass or wooden ring, branch, or piece of driftwood. Each gives a different look: dowels are clean and modern, rings make a circular silhouette, driftwood gives organic boho character.
• Scissors — sharp fabric scissors. Cheap craft scissors are the single biggest reason fringe looks chunky. Grab good ones once and they'll last forever.
• A comb or brush — for opening up cotton fringe at the end. A pet slicker brush works brilliantly.
• Measuring tape — for measuring out cord lengths. The classic rule is 4× finished length per folded cord (= roughly 8× the cut length). See our cord measuring guide for the full Golden Ratio formula.
• Optional — beads — wooden, clay, or ceramic beads for beaded endings. Pick beads with a hole large enough for your cord to pass through doubled.
• Optional — masking tape — wrapping the very tips of your cords stops them fraying while you work.

Cord Length Cheat Sheet — How Much to Cut

A quick guide for typical wall hanging sizes using 4mm cotton cord. Each cord is folded in half via a Lark's Head knot, so the table shows the cut length per cord (already accounting for the fold).

Lengths are estimates for moderately-knotted patterns. Heavy knotting (lots of square knots, dense weaves) needs the higher end of each range. For an exact calculation, use my Golden Ratio cord formula.

Quick Pick — Which Start & End Should You Use?

If you're not sure where to begin, this is the cheat sheet I wish I'd had on day one. Pick a goal on either side and the matching technique tells you where to start.

Pro tip: bookmark this section. You'll want it open while you plan your first piece. 💛

7 Ways to Start a Macramé Wall Hanging

Right — let's get into it. Watch the full video below for every start technique demonstrated step-by-step, then read on for when (and why) to use each one.

1. The Lark's Head Knot

⭐ Beginner ⏱ 2 min/cord

When to use it: Almost anything · Difficulty: Beginner

If you only ever learn one starting knot, learn this one. The Lark's Head Knot is the absolute classic: fold a length of cord in half, slip the loop over the dowel from front to back, then pull the two tails through the loop and snug it down. That's it. Two seconds per cord. The Reverse Lark's Head is the most popular variation — same knot, started from the back — and gives a smooth, clean line across the front of the dowel.

It works on every anchor (dowel, ring, branch), it spaces evenly, and it leaves you two working cords per fold to start your knot pattern with. Use this as your default — and only swap it out when the design calls for something fancier.

How to do it:

1. Cut your cords to length. Use the cord-length cheat sheet above to figure out exactly how much you need per cord, and fold each cord in half so you have a clean loop at the top.
2. Loop and pull through. Place the folded loop behind your dowel, fold it forward over the top, then pull both cord ends through the loop and tug downward firmly. That's a Lark's Head Knot.
3. Repeat for every cord. Slide each new knot snug against the previous one — no gaps. When the dowel is full, you're ready to start knotting your design.

2. The Lark's Head Knot with Two Sections

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 5 min

When to use it: Layered, dimensional tops · Difficulty: Beginner+

A clever variation where you split your cords into two groups and mount the first group with standard Lark's Heads, then the second group with Reverse Lark's Heads, alternating front-and-back across the dowel. The result? A subtle but gorgeous layered effect at the top edge, with the cords slightly staggered in depth.

It's almost the same effort as a single-fold Lark's Head, but the finished piece looks intentionally more designed. Lovely on wider wall hangings where you want the top to feel rich rather than flat. Pair with any middle pattern — it's especially gorgeous with a clean square-knot grid.

How to do it:

1. Attach all your cords using Lark's Head Knots. Same as Method 1 above — fold, loop, pull through.
2. Divide the cords into two equal sections. Slide them apart so there's an empty gap in the middle of the dowel — usually 1.5–2 inches wide. This gap is what creates the V-shape later.
3. Begin knotting each section separately. As you work down, the two sections will naturally angle inward and meet at a point, giving you that beautiful V silhouette.

3. The Lark's Head Plus Half Hitch Knot

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 5 min

When to use it: Slippery cord, heavy pieces · Difficulty: Beginner+

This is my go-to fix for any time a Lark's Head feels like it might slip — heavier wall hangings, slick rings, smooth varnished dowels. You tie a standard Lark's Head, then add a single half hitch on top, which locks the knot in place and adds a tiny bit of extra dimension along the top edge.

It also looks gorgeous, in a quiet way — that little extra wrap creates a beaded-rope texture at the top of the piece that catches the light. I love it on driftwood especially, where the half hitch grips the irregular surface beautifully and stops your Lark's Heads sliding into the dips. Genuinely useful and pretty? Yes.

How to do it:

1. Attach each cord with a Lark's Head Knot. Mount your cords on the dowel as you would normally.
2. Lock each Lark's Head with two Half Hitches. Take the two cord ends from each Lark's Head and tie a single Half Hitch on the outside-left, then a Half Hitch on the outside-right. This locks the knot in place and creates a raised edge.
3. Continue across the dowel. Repeat the Half Hitch lock on every Lark's Head until your dowel is full. The result: a clean, textured top edge with extra grip.

4. The Triple Loop Knot

⭐⭐⭐ Advanced ⏱ 10 min

When to use it: Chunky, dramatic tops · Difficulty: Intermediate

If you want the top of your wall hanging to make an entrance, this is the one. Instead of folding each cord once and mounting it as a Lark's Head, you fold it three times — creating three stacked loops that bunch together along the dowel. The result is a thick, sculptural, almost rope-like top edge that feels wonderfully boho.

A heads-up: the triple loop uses cord fast, so cut your lengths a bit longer than the standard 4× rule. I usually go to 5× finished length to be safe. Best paired with a relaxed middle pattern (alternating square knots, or a soft V) and a long brushed fringe — chunky-and-soft is a beautiful combo.

How to do it:

1. Fold three cords in half together. Take three cords, fold them in half, and gather the looped ends together at the top so all three loops sit side by side.
2. Tie a Square Knot below the loops. Use the outermost left and outermost right cord as the working cords, and the inner cords as the filler. Tie one Square Knot just below the gathered loops — three loops should now sit clearly above the knot.
3. Mount onto the dowel with Double Half Hitches. Bring the looped section up to the dowel and secure each end with a Double Half Hitch. The three loops sit gracefully above the dowel as a decorative top feature.

5. The Cat's Paw Hitch Knot

⭐⭐⭐ Advanced ⏱ 8 min

When to use it: Decorative, intricate tops · Difficulty: Intermediate

Borrowed straight from the sailors who carried macramé around the world. The Cat's Paw is essentially a Lark's Head with twice the wraps — you loop the cord around the dowel two extra times before pulling it through, creating a tied-down, decorative wrap that looks far more intricate than the effort suggests.

It's the start I reach for whenever I want the top of the wall hanging to be the design feature — no fancy middle pattern needed. Pair it with a clean simple body and a barrel-knot or figure-8 finish, and you've got a piece that feels like it was made by someone who knows their knots. Which, after this post, you do.

How to do it:

1. Start with a regular Lark's Head. Fold one cord in half and attach it to the dowel exactly like a normal Lark's Head Knot.
2. Wrap the right cord through the middle loop three times. Take the right cord end and pass it through the centre loop three times — same direction each time so the wraps stack neatly.
3. Mirror with the left cord, then tighten. Take the left cord end and wrap it through the middle loop three times in the opposite direction. Pull both cord ends downward firmly. You'll get an intricate, sailor-style knot with three visible wraps on each side.

6. The Lark's Head Scallop Knot

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 10 min

When to use it: Curved, scalloped top edges · Difficulty: Intermediate

Probably my favourite start to teach in workshops, because the result feels like magic for almost no extra effort. Instead of mounting each Lark's Head straight down on the dowel, you angle the cords so they create gentle scalloped waves along the top edge — alternating left-leaning and right-leaning groups. Suddenly your top edge curves rather than runs flat.

It works particularly well on rings, where the scallop echoes the curve of the ring itself. And it pairs beautifully with a centre-V middle pattern — the angles all tie together and the whole piece feels intentional. Just be careful with cord lengths: the angled mounts use slightly more cord, so add 5–10% to your standard cuts.

How to do it:

1. Tie a vertical Lark's Head at one end of the dowel. Take a long single cord and tie a vertical Lark's Head at one end (a vertical Lark's Head is the same motion as a regular one, but only one cord end attaches to the dowel — the other keeps going).
2. Leave a gap, then tie another. Move along the dowel a few inches, then tie another vertical Lark's Head with the same continuous cord. The gap creates a draped scallop between the two knots.
3. Repeat for as many scallops as you'd like. Continue making vertical Lark's Heads at even intervals across the dowel. Then attach your design cords to the scalloped sections using regular Lark's Heads.

7. The Square Knot Triangle

⭐⭐⭐ Advanced ⏱ 15 min

When to use it: Single-point hangings, geometric pieces · Difficulty: Intermediate

A bit different from the others — this one doesn't mount onto a dowel at all. Instead, you build a triangular hanging point out of descending square knots, with the cords fanning outward as the triangle widens. The point at the very top becomes the spot you hang from a wall hook or nail.

It's perfect for when you don't want the visual weight of a dowel and you'd rather the macramé itself be the whole piece. The triangle structure also gives the top of the wall hanging a strong geometric feel that pairs beautifully with mid-century modern interiors. A bit more cord-planning required, but absolutely worth it for the look.

How to do it:

1. Attach 10 cords to your dowel using Lark's Head Knots. This gives you 20 cord ends hanging down.
2. Divide the cords into 5 groups of 4 cords each. Each group will form one Square Knot in your top row.
3. Tie a Square Knot beneath each group. You'll have five Square Knots across the top row.
4. Drop down a few inches and tie an alternating row of Square Knots. Pair cords from the rows above to create the alternating diamond pattern. The new row will have 4 Square Knots.
5. Continue dropping and alternating, with each row narrower than the last. 4 Square Knots, then 3, then 2 — naturally forming a triangle.
6. Finish with a single Square Knot at the bottom point. Your triangular feature is complete. Attach your main design cords into the gaps between knots to begin your wall hanging pattern.

7 Ways to End (Finish) a Macramé Wall Hanging

Now for the half of the post most of you came for. Macramé end knots and finishing knots are where wall hangings get their personality — and choosing the right one matters more than people give it credit for. The same middle pattern can read soft-and-boho with brushed fringe, or sharp-and-modern with barrel knots, or playful with beads and tassels. Here are the seven techniques I use most often, plus exactly when each one shines.

If you're searching for how to finish macramé ends, how to end macramé without fringe, or just want a finishing knot that doesn't look like everyone else's — you'll find your answer below. Watch the full video first, then read through for the breakdowns.

1. Fringe

⭐ Beginner ⏱ 5 min

When to use it: Boho, soft, romantic pieces · Difficulty: Beginner

The classic. Single-strand cotton cord brushes out into the softest, fluffiest fringe — and once you've trimmed it straight across the bottom, it's the most quintessentially "macramé" look there is. To finish: stop your knot pattern, trim cords roughly to length, comb them open in small sections with a slicker brush or wide-tooth comb, and re-trim for a final clean line.

A pro tip — only single-strand cotton brushes out properly. Three-ply twisted cord won't fluff the same way (it'll just spring open into individual plies). If fringe is your goal, double-check your cord type before you cut. And steam-iron the finished fringe lightly: it relaxes the fibres and gives that gallery-perfect drape.

How to do it:

1. Untwist the cord ends if needed. If you're using a 3-ply cord, gently separate each cord into its three plies first. Single-strand cord can be combed directly without untwisting.
2. Comb each strand open. Using a fine-tooth comb, fringe brush, or even a stiff toothbrush, work through each cord from the bottom up until the fibres fluff out. Then trim — straight across, V-shaped, or scalloped, whatever look you want.

2. Feathers Using a Gathering Knot

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 10 min

When to use it: Boho, layered, organic pieces · Difficulty: Beginner+

A gorgeous, slightly more advanced finish where you gather small bundles of cord, secure each bundle with a Gathering Knot, and then brush and trim them into individual feather shapes that hang along the bottom of the piece. Each "feather" is a mini-finish in its own right, and together they create a soft, organic edge that's a beautiful alternative to a flat brushed fringe.

Feather endings work especially well on smaller wall hangings (12–18 inches wide), where the feathers feel proportional rather than overwhelming. Stagger their lengths a little — a slightly random shape feels more natural than a perfectly straight line. And you can stiffen each feather with a tiny bit of fabric stiffener spray once you're happy with the shape, which keeps them looking crisp for years.

How to do it:

1. Lay your feather alongside the cord end. Position the feather so the quill sits next to the bottom inch or two of your cord — the feather pointing down past the end of the cord.
2. Wrap with a thin tying cord and lock. Use 1mm cotton, hemp twine, or embroidery floss to wrap tightly around the cord and feather quill at the top — about 5–6 wraps. Tuck the end through and pull tight to lock the Gathering Knot. Trim the wrap ends flush. The feather now hangs naturally as part of your piece.

3. Beads Using an Overhand Knot

⭐ Beginner ⏱ 5 min

When to use it: Earthy, textured, no-fringe pieces · Difficulty: Beginner

Quietly one of my favourites. Thread a wooden, clay, or ceramic bead onto each cord end (or pair of cord ends), then tie a simple Overhand Knot just below the bead to lock it in place. The bead's weight gives a lovely natural drape and the Overhand Knot stops anything from slipping. Done.

This is the easiest no-fringe finish in the whole post, and it gives the piece an earthy, textured personality — especially with raw-finish wooden beads. Mix bead sizes for visual rhythm, or stick to one shape for a cleaner look. Just make sure your bead holes are wide enough for your cord; nothing more frustrating than threading nine cords through and discovering bead ten doesn't fit.

How to do it:

1. Tape the end and thread the bead. A small piece of masking tape on the cord end stops the fibres from fraying and makes threading beads much easier. Slide your bead onto the cord and position it where you want it to sit.
2. Tie an Overhand Knot below the bead. Just below the bead, make a simple overhand loop with the cord and pull tight. The knot keeps the bead from sliding off. Trim the cord 1–2 cm below the knot for a clean finish.

4. Barrel Knot

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 5 min/knot

When to use it: Modern, minimalist, no-fringe pieces · Difficulty: Intermediate

The Barrel Knot is essentially a wrapped tube — you loop the cord around itself multiple times, then pull it tight, and what you end up with is a clean, rolled, cylindrical knot that looks really architectural. Three or four wraps gives a delicate barrel; six to eight gives a chunkier, more pronounced one. Pick based on how much weight you want at the bottom edge.

It's my favourite finish for modern, minimalist wall hangings — especially in Japandi or Scandi spaces where loose fringe would feel too soft. It also reads very intentional and almost sculptural. Pair it with a Cat's Paw start for a wall hanging that feels properly designed from top to bottom.

How to do it:

1. Form a loop with your cord. Make a single loop near the bottom of your cord, leaving a tail to wrap with.
2. Wrap, thread, and tighten. Take the working end and wrap it through the inside of the loop 3–4 times — keeping the wraps tidy and stacked. Pull both cord ends in opposite directions firmly to compress the wraps into a small cylindrical barrel. Trim the working end short.

5. Figure-8 Knot

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 5 min/knot

When to use it: Sailor-style, decorative, structured pieces · Difficulty: Beginner+

A direct borrow from sailing rope-work — the Figure-8 forms a clean, instantly recognisable "8" shape at the end of each cord. It's a stopper knot (it physically prevents the cord from running through anything), and on a wall hanging it doubles as a small decorative anchor that gives weight and visual structure to each cord ending.

It pairs beautifully with the Cat's Paw start (both are sailor knots — the design feels cohesive) and reads especially well on coastal or nautical-themed pieces. Smaller and more subtle than the Barrel Knot, but still a clear "this is finished, I meant this" statement at the bottom.

How to do it:

1. Form a figure-8 with your cord. Cross the cord over itself to make a loop, then loop the working end behind the standing cord and back up through the original loop — creating a figure-8 shape.
2. Pull through and snug down. Pull the working end through both loops of the figure-8 and tighten by gently pulling both ends. Trim the tail. The result is a tidy, decorative end knot that lies flat.

6. Rain Knot

⭐⭐⭐ Advanced ⏱ 15 min

When to use it: Vertical drama, cascading pieces · Difficulty: Intermediate

If you've ever scrolled past a wall hanging on Instagram and thought "wait, what is that beautiful drippy bottom?" — there's a fair chance it was a Rain Knot finish. Rain Knots are wrapped knots placed at staggered heights along each cord (or pair of cords), creating little vertical "raindrops" that cascade down the bottom of the piece in irregular but rhythmic lines.

Honestly, this is one of the most contemporary-looking finishes you can do — and it's probably my pick for "the wall hanging finish that gets the most DMs." It does take time and patience (each knot is hand-wrapped) and works best on longer cord tails of at least 6–8 inches, so plan ahead and cut generously.

How to do it:

1. Wrap one cord around another with loops. Take a single working cord and wrap it around an adjacent cord, deliberately leaving small loops on either side as you wrap.
2. Pull tight and repeat down the row. Compress the wraps to lock the loops into place. Move down to the next pair of cords and repeat — building a vertical "rain" of small bound knots that look like cascading raindrops.

7. Tassels

⭐⭐ Intermediate ⏱ 8 min/tassel

When to use it: Bohemian, festive, layered pieces · Difficulty: Beginner+

Group your cords into bundles, bind each bundle near the top with a Gathering Knot, and let the rest of the cord hang loose beneath — that's a tassel. Multiple tassels along the bottom of a wall hanging give a lovely rhythmic, layered finish, and the Gathering Knots themselves add a pretty horizontal accent line just above where the tassels begin.

You can leave tassel ends straight, brush them into mini-fringe, or even thread a bead onto the binding cord for extra detail. They're the most "festival vibes" finish in this list, and they're also incredibly forgiving — uneven cord lengths get hidden inside the tassel bundle, which is a small mercy if your knot tension drifted along the way.

How to do it:

1. Tie a base Overhand Knot with two cords. Take two cords from your work and tie a simple Overhand Knot near where you want the top of your tassel to sit.
2. Add extra strands through the loop. Cut several short strands of cord (about double the length you want for the tassel), fold each in half, and pull the folded loops through the Overhand Knot you just tied. The cut ends now hang down to form the tassel body.
3. Wrap with a Gathering Knot, then trim. Use another short cord to wrap the very top of the tassel several times — this creates the tassel's "neck" and locks all the strands together. Trim the bottom of the tassel even for a clean finish.

Pro Tips for Pro-Looking Wall Hangings

A few things I've learned the hard way (i.e., by getting them wrong on early pieces) that lift a finished wall hanging from "nice" to "people will ask where you got it."

• Mind your tension. Inconsistent tension is the #1 reason a wall hanging looks "homemade" rather than designed. Pull each knot with the same firmness — and if you take a break for a few hours, do a tension test on the next knot before you commit a row.
• Tape your cord tips. A small wrap of masking tape around the very tip of each cord prevents fraying while you work. Remove it before the final fringe brush.
• Check symmetry as you go. Stand back every few rows and look at the piece from across the room. Tiny lopsided drift is much easier to fix early than later.
• Brush fringe in small sections. Don't try to comb the whole bottom edge at once — you'll end up with chunky clumps. Take 1-inch sections, comb them open with a slicker brush, then move on. Patience pays off.
• Steam-block the finished piece. A light pass with a steam iron (held just above the cord, not pressed down) relaxes the fibres and gives that smooth, gallery-perfect drape.
• Hang it right. Use a small wall hook or two thumb tacks placed slightly inside the dowel ends, not at the very tips — this keeps the dowel level. For heavier pieces, a single screw with a wall plug is worth the extra two minutes.
• Match cord type to finish. Single-strand cotton brushes out beautifully (perfect for fringe and feathers); three-ply twisted cord doesn't fluff the same way but holds barrel and figure-8 knots more crisply. Pick cord with the finish in mind.
• Don't over-trim. Cut your fringe a little longer than you think you want, then trim again after brushing — fringe always shrinks visually once it's open. Better to take more off than to wish you hadn't gone short.

Troubleshooting — When Your Start or End Looks Off

Every macramé maker hits these problems eventually — usually all six of them on the very first wall hanging. Here's the fix list I send to students whenever they message me.

My Lark's Heads keep sliding along the dowel

Either the dowel is too smooth (varnished or polished), the cord is too slick, or both. Switch to the Lark's Head + Half Hitch start — the extra half hitch grips the dowel and locks each knot in place. A lightly sanded raw-wood dowel also helps a lot.

My fringe is uneven and chunky

Three culprits, usually: dull scissors, rushing the comb, or three-ply cord pretending to be single-strand. Sharpen or replace the scissors, comb in small sections, and double-check the cord type. Steam after combing for the final smoothing pass.

My wall hanging looks lopsided

Almost always inconsistent knot tension drifting in one direction, or one cord cut shorter than the others. Hang the piece up, photograph it, then re-tighten the loose-tension side. If a single cord is short, consider adding a barrel knot or bead to that cord to disguise the trim line.

My cords are different lengths after finishing

Two fixes. (1) Hang the piece, place a long ruler or a level taped horizontally across the bottom, and trim straight to the line. (2) Lean into the imperfection: a lightly staggered, tapered, or curved fringe is a beautiful alternative to perfectly flat — and a lot of designers do this on purpose.

My beads keep slipping off the cord

Either your Overhand Knot beneath the bead isn't tight enough, or the bead hole is too wide for your cord. Tighten harder — pull the knot until the cord visibly compresses. If the hole is too wide, double the cord through it before knotting, or pick a smaller bead.

I want to skip the fringe entirely

Easy — pick any of the five no-fringe finishes from the ENDS section: Barrel Knot, Figure-8 Knot, Beaded Overhand, Rain Knot, or Tassels. All of them give a clean, structured bottom edge with zero brushed-out cord. See the FAQ below for more on this if you'd like the quick answer.

Nicole's Favourite Modern Macramé Books

If this post left you wanting more knot ideas, these three books are the ones I keep coming back to. All three include wall-hanging projects with detailed start and finish techniques — perfect companions to what we've covered here.

These are Amazon affiliate links — if you buy one I get a few cents, which helps keep Bochiknot's tutorials free for everyone. No pressure though; your library probably has them too.

Start Your Wall Hanging Today

If this post has you reaching for cord — same. Pick your start, pick your finish, and let's go. Everything you need is one click away.

Brand new to macramé? Browse our 12 free beginner projects or read the complete beginner's guide. Need a refresher on cord? Our cord & materials guide covers everything.

Frequently Asked Questions

📖 Quick glossary — terms used in this post

Lark's Head Knot

A simple folded-loop attachment knot used to mount cord onto a dowel, ring, or branch. The classic macramé start.

Reverse Lark's Head

A Lark's Head started from the back of the dowel rather than the front, giving a smooth front-facing line.

Half Hitch

A single wrap of cord around another cord — the basic building block of the Double Half Hitch.

Gathering Knot

A wrapped binding knot that bundles a group of cords together — the workhorse finishing knot in macramé.

Cat's Paw Hitch

A sailor's mounting knot with twice the wraps of a Lark's Head — decorative, secure, and intricate-looking.

Square Knot

The workhorse middle-knot of macramé — two alternating half-knots forming a flat, symmetrical knot.

Barrel Knot

A wrapped, rolled, cylindrical knot used as a decorative finishing knot at cord ends.

Figure-8 Knot

A sailor's stopper knot in the shape of an "8" — clean, decorative, and structural at cord ends.

Rain Knot

Wrapped knots placed at staggered heights along cords, creating cascading vertical "raindrop" lines at the bottom of a piece.

Overhand Knot

The simplest knot — a loop pulled through itself. Used to lock beads in place and stop cord ends slipping.

Fringe

The brushed-out, combed-open ends of single-strand cotton cord at the bottom of a wall hanging.

Anchor cord

The dowel, ring, branch, or driftwood that the cords mount onto at the top of a wall hanging.

More Tutorials from Nicole on YouTube

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