How to Macrame Christmas Tree Ornament With Beads (16 Steps + Video)
Sixteen steps, six beads and a gold shimmer cord that catches the tree lights. The most detailed of our Christmas tree ornaments — and the one that looks like it came from a shop.
Last updated: September 5, 2026
Some links in this post are affiliate links, which means Bochiknot may earn a small commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. We only ever link to things we use ourselves.
A Note from Nicole
Of all the Christmas ornaments on this site, this is the one people ask where I bought.
Two things do that. The beads — six of them, threaded in as the tree widens, so they sit inside the pattern rather than dangling off it. And the cord, which is a gold shimmer spun through natural cotton. On a lit tree it catches, and that is what lifts it from "handmade" to "where is that from?".
The shimmer cord does have one quirk worth knowing before you start: the metallic strands come apart if you look at them wrong. There is a section further down on working with it, because nobody tells you and it is genuinely the difference between a clean ornament and a frayed one.
Sixteen steps, eight knots, about an hour. Every knot is one you already know.
A macrame Christmas tree ornament with beads is a flat, triangular hanging ornament worked downward from a loop, widened in bands by adding cords in pairs, with large-hole beads threaded into the pattern as it grows. This version uses 3mm cotton cord — a gold shimmer blend here — six large-hole beads, and eight knots: the Lark's Head, square knot, alternating square knot, Berry knot, double half hitch, vertical Lark's Head, reverse Lark's Head plus half hitch, and gathering knot. It takes about an hour across 16 steps.
Quick Answer
- Skill level: Confident beginner ★★★☆☆ — eight knots, but all of them basic.
- Time: About an hour.
- Cord: 3mm cotton — gold shimmer shown. 12 cords in five lengths.
- Beads: 6 large-hole, 3mm hole minimum.
- What makes it different: the only tree ornament here with beads worked into the pattern.
- Also inside: how to knot with metallic and shimmer cord without it fraying apart.
🎥 Two videos below. The berry knot in Step 5 and the bead placement in Step 6 are both far clearer watched than read.
What's in this tutorial
- Materials you'll need
- Cord cut lengths
- Working with metallic and shimmer cord
- The eight knots you'll use
- Project details at a glance
- Watch the video tutorials
- Phase 1: The top of the tree (Steps 1–7)
- Phase 2: Widening the tree (Steps 8–13)
- Phase 3: The base and trunk (Steps 14–16)
- Where first attempts usually go wrong
- What to make next month
- FAQ
Materials You'll Need
Cord and beads. This tutorial uses our Metallic Mix cord — single-strand cotton spun with a metallic thread — though plain 3mm cotton works just as well if you would rather skip the shimmer. The pearl beads have a 9mm opening, so 3mm cord passes through easily — worth checking if you substitute, since standard craft beads won't take 3mm cord. You'll also want a tape measure for the cord lengths.
Metallic Mix Cord
The shimmer cord used in this tutorial — single-strand cotton spun with metallic, including a Christmas colourway.
3mm Cotton Cord
Prefer plain cotton? Natural, cream and forest green all read as Christmas without the shimmer.
Large Hole Pearl Beads
Six per ornament. A 9mm opening, so 3mm cord passes through easily — and 30 to a pack.
Macrame Scissors
Sharp blades matter more than usual with shimmer cord, which frays on a blunt cut.
Fringe Comb
For the fringe at Step 16, if you want it fanned rather than straight.
Macrame Board with T-Pins
Step 1 asks you to pin the hanging loop down. A board and T-pins hold it square while you knot the whole tree.
Not sure which cord? Read the complete guide to choosing macrame cord. Our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Cord Cut Lengths
| Length | Qty | What it's for |
|---|---|---|
| 160 cm (63″) | 5 | The loop and the first mounted cords (Steps 1–2) |
| 120 cm (47″) | 2 | First widening pair (Step 8) |
| 80 cm (31″) | 2 | Second widening pair (Step 11) |
| 60 cm (24″) | 2 | Third widening pair (Step 13) |
| 50 cm (20″) | 1 | The gathering knot trunk (Step 15) |
12 cords, roughly 13 metres. One roll makes a dozen ornaments.
📏 Making a set? Cut for all of them at once — the lengths are short and the cutting is the tedious part. Our free cord calculator handles resizing if you want a bigger tree.
Working With Metallic and Shimmer Cord
Metallic cord is a Christmas purchase for most people. You see it, you buy it for exactly one project, and then you discover it behaves nothing like the cotton you are used to.
Nobody warns you about this, so here it is.
What metallic cord actually is
Our own Metallic Mix cord is a good example of the type. It isn't metal — it's cotton spun with a fine synthetic filament — usually polyester or lurex — that catches light. That filament is much thinner and much slipperier than the cotton around it, and it is not spun as tightly. Which means the moment you cut the cord, the metallic strands start separating from the cotton.
Everything below follows from that one fact.
The five rules
- Knot every cut end immediately. A simple overhand knot in the tail, the second you cut it. This is the single most useful habit and it takes two seconds. Unknotted ends unravel while you work, and once the metallic has separated from the cotton you cannot put it back.
- Cut with sharp scissors, in one pass. Sawing at metallic cord shreds the filament. A clean single cut leaves a clean end; a blunt or repeated cut leaves a frayed one before you have even started.
- Work with shorter lengths than you normally would. Every centimetre of cord that passes through your hands loses a little shimmer. Long working cords get visibly duller at the ends by the time you reach them.
- Tighten more gently. Cotton forgives a hard pull; metallic does not. Yanking a knot tight drags the filament out of alignment and leaves a dull patch exactly where the knot is most visible.
- Undo as little as possible. Retying a knot in metallic cord roughs up the surface. On cotton you can undo a row three times and nobody knows. Here it shows. Work slower and check more often, rather than reworking.
If it has already frayed
| Problem | What to do |
|---|---|
| Ends unravelling as you work | Knot them. If a tail is already separated, trim back to clean cord and knot the fresh end — you lose a centimetre and save the strand. |
| A dull patch where a knot sits | The knot was tightened too hard. It won't recover, but it is usually only visible up close — and on a lit tree, not at all. |
| Filament loops standing proud of the cord | Snip them flush with sharp scissors. Do not pull them, or you will drag more filament out of the twist. |
| The whole strand looks fuzzy | Usually from over-handling. Nothing fixes it, but a fuzzy strand hidden inside the pattern is invisible — save the crispest cords for the outer edges. |
Where to use it, and where not to
Metallic cord earns its place on small pieces that get looked at closely — ornaments, keychains, gift toppers, anything under about 20 cm. The shimmer reads at that scale and the short cord lengths mean less handling.
It is a poor choice for large wall hangings and plant hangers. Long cords mean a lot of handling, the shimmer dulls unevenly along the length, and at three feet away the effect is lost anyway. If you want sparkle on a big piece, use it as an accent cord among plain cotton rather than for the whole thing.
💡 A cheaper way to test it. Metallic cord costs more than plain cotton, so before committing, make one ornament with a metallic accent and the rest in plain cord. Our Metallic Mix rolls come in a range of colourways including a Christmas mix, so you can try one shade rather than a full set. You will find out quickly whether you like working with it — some people love the finish and find the fussiness not worth it.
More on cord types in the guide to choosing macrame cord and alternative cord options beyond cotton.
The Eight Knots You'll Use
Eight sounds like a lot. It isn't — they are all basic, several are variations of each other, and the tree repeats them in the same order three times as it widens.
Lark's Head Knot
Mounts the first cords in Step 2. Its vertical variation shapes the side edges in Step 4.
Learn the Lark's Head
Square & Alternating Square
Every band of the tree. Alternating square knots are what make the triangle widen.
Learn the square knot
Berry Knot
The raised bobbles — six across the finished tree. The detail people notice first.
Learn the Berry knot
Double Half Hitch
The diagonal side edges, and the row that closes the bottom at Step 14.
Learn the double half hitch
Reverse Lark's Head + Half Hitch
Adds each widening pair of cords without leaving a visible bump.
Learn the RLHPHH
Gathering Knot
Forms the trunk at Step 15 and holds every cord in the ornament.
Learn the gathering knotProject Details at a Glance
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Confident beginner ★★★☆☆ |
| Time | About 1 hour |
| Cord | 3mm cotton — gold shimmer shown (~13 m) |
| Cords to cut | 12, across five lengths |
| Beads | 6 large-hole, 3mm hole minimum |
| Knots | Eight — all basic |
| Steps | 16, in three phases |
Watch the Video Tutorials
▶ Watch full-screen on YouTube →
Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial
Sixteen steps in three phases. The tree is worked downward from the hanging loop and widens in bands — each band adds a pair of cords, a row of square knots and a set of berry knots, so once you have done the first you have done them all.
The Top of the Tree
Steps 1-7 make the hanging loop and the first tier — square knots, the first berry knot, and the first bead.
Fold the cord and make the hanging loop
- Take a strand of cord at 160 cm long folded in half and make an Overhand knot on the loop end. Leave about 2" of space from the top of the loop. Pin or tape down the top loop part.
Mount four more cords
- Attach two strands of 160cm cords onto the right-side and two strands on the left-side with Lark's Head knots.
Two rows of alternating square knots
- Make two rows of Alternating Square knots. Start with the middle four cords. Make alternating square knots below the first one, using the far left and far right sets of four cords.
Shape the first side edge
- Take the second cord from the right and make a Vertical Lark's Head knot onto the far-right cord. Repeat the same on the left-side.
Berry knot at the centre
- With the middle four cords, make a Berry knot with two consecutive Square knots. With the first square knot, leave about 1cm space the square knot – this is for weaving the middle two anchor cords through. Weave the middle two anchor cords through the hole. Take the same four working cords and create one more square knot underneath.
Diagonal double half hitch and the first bead
- Take the third cord from the right as an anchor cord for a Double Half Hitch (DHH) knot to the right. Weave a bead through the far-right cord. Take the same anchor cord as before and make another DHH knot.
Mirror the pattern on the left
- Repeat the same pattern onto the left-side.
The first tier is done
Seven steps in and you have the loop, the first band and the first bead. Hold it up — the triangle should already be readable.
The next two bands repeat this exact pattern.
Widening the Tree
Steps 8-13 add cords in pairs. Each pair widens the triangle by one band, and the berry knots build up as you go.
Add the 120 cm cords
- Attach a strand of 120 cm cord onto the far-right cord with a Reverse Lark's Head Plus Half hitch (RLHPHH). Repeat this on the left.
Second band of square knots and berry knots
- Make two rows of Alternating Square knots underneath your pattern. Add two Berry knots in the center.
Repeat the side edges
- Repeat the same side pattern as above, starting with the third cord from the right. Start with one DHH knot, thread through a bead, and close with one more DHH knot. Repeat on the left.
Add the 80 cm cords
- Attach a strand of 80 cm cord onto each of the far-right and far-left cords with an RLHPHH.
Third band with three berry knots
- Make two rows of alternating Square knots and then three Berry knots after that.
Add the 60 cm cords and another band
- Repeat the same side patterns above and add on a 60 cm cord on both sides with an RLHPHH. Add two more rows of Square knots underneath.
Full width reached
Three bands, six berry knots, six beads. All that's left is closing the bottom and the trunk.
Three steps to go.
The Base and Trunk
Steps 14-16 close the bottom edge, form the trunk with a gathering knot, and trim.
Close the bottom edge
- Take the far-left cord as an anchor cord for eight DHH knots to the right. After each DHH knot, include the working cord with the anchor cord group for the next DHH. Repeat on the right-side.
Gathering knot at the base
- Take a strand of 50 cm cord as the working cord for a Gathering knot at the bottom. Pull on the gathered cords to make sure there are no scrunched-up cords in the knot.
Trim the fringe
- Cut off excess cords and trim fringe. And there you have it! This gorgeous ornament is bound to bring festive cheer to your home. I like the texture the berry knots brought to this design. What was your favorite part of the design? Let me know in the comments.
Hang it where the lights hit it
Shimmer cord does nothing in a dark corner and everything next to a bulb. Put it on an outer branch near a light and the whole point of the gold becomes obvious.
Tag #BochiknotChristmas on Instagram — I'd love to see which cord colour you chose.
Where First Attempts Usually Go Wrong
| What happens | Why, and how to fix it |
|---|---|
| The tree hangs crooked | The loop in Step 1 shifted while you worked. Pin or tape it down before Step 2 — everything below is built off it. |
| A bead won't go on | The hole is too small. Large-hole beads are a specific product — the pearl beads used here have a 9mm opening. Standard craft beads won't take 3mm cord no matter how you twist it. |
| You realise a bead is missing two rows later | Thread beads before tightening the knot they sit in, not after. Adding one late means undoing the row. |
| The two sides don't match | The right side was counted independently instead of mirrored. Build the second side by copying the first, and check at arm's length every band. |
| The tree leans | Cords were added unevenly at Steps 8, 11 or 13. Each widening adds one cord per side — never two on one side and one on the other. |
| Berry knots look flat | The first square knot wasn't pushed far enough up through the middle. It should sit proud of the surface, not level with it. |
| Shimmer cord is fraying everywhere | Knot every cut end the moment you cut it. See the metallic cord section above — this is the single habit that fixes it. |
| The fringe looks uneven | Trimmed flat on a table. Hang the ornament first, then cut — cord falls differently under its own weight. |
What to Make Next
🎄 More Christmas macrame:
- Pipa knot tree ornament — a different tree shape from a single decorative knot
- Cinnamon stick tree — the same triangle worked onto a cinnamon stick trunk
- 3D macrame Christmas tree — knotted in the round instead of flat
- 5 Christmas tree ideas — all the tree patterns in one place
- Ornaments under $20 — the budget picks across every shape
🎨 Want PDF patterns? Browse the macrame pattern library.
Prefer to buy finished? Handmade pieces are on our Etsy shop.
What Will You Make Next?
There's a particular moment that arrives about ten minutes after you finish an ornament. It's on the tree, catching the lights, and you're already thinking you should make five more before December
That moment is worth paying attention to, because it's usually where things stall — and almost never for the reason people assume. It isn't that the interest fades. You've just spent an afternoon proving otherwise. It's that deciding what to make next turns out to be harder than making it. So the cord goes back in the drawer, and three months later it's still in the drawer.
I built the Bochiknot community to close that gap. Every month there's a new pattern and a full video tutorial already waiting for you, alongside everything published before it. The deciding is done. You just turn up and make.
Tier 1: Mini-Macramé Creations
or $6.40 a month paid annually
A new project waiting for you at the start of every month.
- A new #MakingMacrame pattern and full video tutorial, monthly
- The complete pattern archive, open whenever inspiration strikes
- Cancel or change tier at any time
For: makers who simply want to keep going, without spending an evening hunting for what's next.
Tier 2: Mastering Macramé Skills
or $10.40 a month paid annually
The month you stop following patterns and start reading them.
- Everything in Tier 1
- A 300+ video library of lessons, guidance and challenges
- Technique breakdowns that explain why a knot behaves as it does
For: makers who've noticed they can follow a pattern but couldn't yet write one. This is where that changes — and it's the tier most people choose.
Tier 3: Macramé Masterpiece Lite
or $23.20 a month paid annually
Everything above, and the cord arrives at your door.
- Everything in Tier 2
- A curated, ready-to-make kit delivered every third month
- No sourcing, no half-used rolls piling up
For: makers who love the making and have quietly grown tired of the shopping for it.
Which one, honestly?
If what you want is a next project each month, Tier 1 does exactly that and nothing more — and there is nothing wrong with wanting only that.
Tier 2 is for a different itch. If this ornament left you wondering how you'd design your own — a star, a snowflake, a shape nobody sells — that's the beginning of designing rather than following, and the video library is built around exactly that question. It's the tier most people settle on
Tier 3 is for the maker who has done enough projects to know that sourcing cord is the part they like least.
All three can be paid annually for around 20% less, and Patreon lets you change tier or leave whenever you like — there's nothing to cancel by email and no minimum term.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you work with metallic or shimmer macrame cord?
Knot every cut end the moment you cut it — that one habit prevents most problems. Metallic cord is cotton spun with a loose synthetic filament, so the filament separates as soon as the cord is cut. Also cut with sharp scissors in a single pass, work with shorter lengths, tighten gently, and avoid retying knots where you can.
Why does my metallic macrame cord keep fraying?
Because the metallic filament is spun more loosely than the cotton around it, so it starts separating at any cut end. An overhand knot in each tail stops it. If a tail has already unravelled, trim back to clean cord and knot the fresh end.
Does metallic cord lose its shine as you work?
A little, yes — every centimetre that passes through your hands dulls slightly. That's why shorter working cords are better, and why metallic suits small pieces like ornaments rather than long plant hangers where the ends look noticeably duller than the start.
Can you use metallic cord for large macrame projects?
You can, but I wouldn't. Long cords mean a lot of handling, the shimmer dulls unevenly along the length, and at three feet away the effect is lost anyway. Use it as an accent among plain cotton on big pieces, and save it for ornaments and keychains where it's seen up close.
What size beads do I need for a macrame Christmas ornament?
Large-hole beads. The faux pearl beads used here have a 9mm opening, which takes 3mm cord with room to spare. Standard craft beads won't take 3mm cord at all, so check the hole rather than the bead size. Six beads go into this ornament, and a 30-pack makes five.
How do you add beads to a macrame ornament?
Thread the bead onto the cord before you tighten the knot it sits in, not after. Adding one late means undoing the row to get it on. In this pattern the beads go in as the tree widens, so they sit inside the design rather than hanging off it.
How long does this macrame Christmas ornament take?
About an hour. The first band takes longest because you're learning the sequence; the second and third repeat it, so they go much faster.
What knots do I need to know?
Eight, all basic: Lark's Head, vertical Lark's Head, square knot, alternating square knot, Berry knot, double half hitch, reverse Lark's Head plus half hitch, and the gathering knot. Several are variations of each other.
How much cord do I need?
12 cords across five lengths — 5 × 160 cm, 2 × 120 cm, 2 × 80 cm, 2 × 60 cm and 1 × 50 cm — so around 13 metres. One roll makes roughly a dozen ornaments.
Is this macrame Christmas ornament beginner-friendly?
It's a confident-beginner project. Every individual knot is basic, but there are eight of them and the pattern repeats in bands, so it rewards someone who has made a few pieces before. If you've made a keychain or a small wall hanging, you'll manage this.
What cord colour works best for a Christmas ornament?
Gold shimmer is shown here and catches tree lights. Natural, cream, forest green and burgundy all read as Christmas. Undyed cotton looks Scandinavian and suits a tree with warm white lights.
Can I make this ornament bigger?
Yes — add another widening band. Each band is a pair of cords plus a row of square knots and berry knots, so one more pair makes a wider tree. Add roughly 40 cm to the base cords if you do.
Why are my berry knots flat?
The first square knot wasn't pushed far enough up through the middle. A berry knot should sit visibly proud of the surface. Push it up until it bulges, then tighten the second square knot underneath to lock it.
Why is my tree lopsided?
Cords were added unevenly in one of the widening steps. Each one adds a single cord per side — never two on one side. If you catch it in the same band you can undo and correct it.
How do I hang the ornament?
The loop from Step 1 takes a standard ornament hook or a length of ribbon. Because the loop is knotted rather than glued, it carries the weight of the whole piece without stretching.
How should I store macrame ornaments?
Flat, in a rigid box, and not underneath anything heavy — cotton takes a set and a crushed ornament holds the crease. A shoebox with tissue between layers works well, kept somewhere dry indoors.
Can I sell macrame Christmas ornaments made from this pattern?
Yes. Square knots, berry knots and double half hitches are traditional techniques rather than proprietary designs, so anything you make is yours to sell. Please just don't redistribute the tutorial itself.
Where can I buy the cord and beads used here?
The Metallic Mix cord used here, plain 3mm cotton cord, large-hole pearl beads, macrame boards, scissors and combs are all on Bochiknot.com, and our supplies also ship from the Bochiknot storefronts on Amazon US and Amazon Canada.
Keep Learning with Bochiknot
Pipa Knot Tree Ornament
A different tree shape built from a single decorative knot. Faster than this one.
Make the pipa tree
Cinnamon Stick Tree
The same triangle worked onto a cinnamon stick — and it smells like Christmas.
Make the cinnamon tree
3D Macramé Christmas Tree
Knotted in the round rather than flat. A free-standing tree instead of an ornament.
Make the 3D tree
5 Christmas Tree Ideas
Every macramé tree pattern in one place, with skill levels and times.
See all tree ideas
Choosing Macramé Cord
Single-strand, 3-ply, braided and metallic — which to use and when.
Read the cord guide
Cord Measuring Calculator
Scaling the ornament up? This works out the new cut lengths.
Open the calculatorYou Might Also Be Interested In
Metallic Mix Cord
The shimmer cord in this tutorial. Single-strand cotton spun with metallic, in several colourways including Christmas.
Shop metallic cord
3mm Cotton Cord
One roll makes about a dozen ornaments. Gold shimmer, natural and green all suit Christmas.
Shop 3mm cord
Large Hole Pearl Beads
Six per ornament, 30 to a pack. The 9mm opening takes 3mm cord with room to spare.
Shop pearl beads
Rose Gold Scissors
Sharp blades matter more than usual with shimmer cord — blunt cuts fray it.
Shop scissors
Ornaments Under $20
Budget Christmas ornaments across every shape, with costs broken down.
See the budget picks
About Nicole Woo
Nicole is the founder of Bochiknot and has been teaching macrame for 5+ years to a community of 100,000+ makers across YouTube, Instagram and Patreon. She specialises in beginner-friendly cotton cord projects that feel approachable no matter your skill level.
Join her on Patreon for exclusive patterns, or explore individual ebook patterns.
Leave a comment